Mark

   Very strange. Is it the same if shifted into reverse and low? How about when driven and then brought to a stop with the FOM in drive? Does it die then too?

   When you shift into gear does the engine twist on the engine mounts? Would this have anything to do with this problem? Can you observe the engine while someone else shifts it into drive?

   Time to think outside the box. Pete

Hello Pete! I actually have a topic on this problem going if you look back about 10 topics.Kind of got this one and that one merging.Thought I would ask a separate question regarding the resistor as I am checking out other possible solutions to my problem.It wont idle in drive,reverse,or when you come to a stop.I have to use gas and brake to keep it running.Really annoyed because until I can find the cause its not fun to drive.

  

I really doubt that its the resistor, but they are cheap and you might consider buying a new one for peach of mind. Most of the time they are dead or alive. However a broken winding can work until you hit a bump. The quick way to check them is to clip the 2 wires together and bypass the thing and see if that has any effect. You won't hurt your coil for a few minutes. I would strongly suspect that there is a vacuum leak somewhere when you put it in gear. I understand absolutely nothing about Fordos. All I have ever had behind a Y was a Borg Warner. Is there possibly something that pulls vacuum when you put it in gear? Or do you possibly have a PVC valve stuck open and the extra load of being in gear pushes it over the edge? I suppose you haven't mixed a load o matic distributor with a later carb or visa versa.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Mark:



Reading this thread on your problem you may have a low voltage problem or a bad grounding problem.



I see on the other thread you are using a late distributor with Accell conversion. Does the Accell conversion require a ballast resister. I am not familiar with the Accell kit. Pertronics with their own coil does not require a ballast resister. I would swap the distributor for a distributor with one that has a points set up to test if the problem is in that distributor or in the Accell setup. I have had the opposite happen on a Petronics setup where idle and starting was perfect until you increased RPM them terrible back firing and cross firing. Only way to run the engine was to pull three plug wires. This was on a 56 distributor.



Have you changed your key switch lately as they are known for problems. They usually shutdown an engine like you turned the key off then when you turn the key they will immediately start and run again for another few more lights. You could use a jumper wire and bypass the key switch from battery to coil to test this theory.



Does the stumbling and bad idle come on same time as your generator light comes on as that will indicate low voltage if problem is happening at same time as car is now not getting a charging voltage. Are the ground links clean and hooked at the back of the engine and front engine mount, ground cable from battery to engine clean of paint and tight, battery post end clean and not internally corroded. Does the Accell unit require a separate ground link. Bad ground links increase resistance throughout the system.



I seen a bad idle and stumbling on a Cougar some years back when found the coil wire was bad. It was black for over an inch.



Just some more ideas for the trouble shooting list.

marv

Hello Guys! OK I was at a swap meet today and picked up a new flamethrower coil which I have been wanting to try anyway.Eliminates the resistor altogether.Installed it and didnt really affect my problem.I have now set the timing at 8BTDC and hooked up the vacuum line to the nonported(fulltime) outlet on the carb.This advances the timing about 10 at startup and raise the idle speed.Marvh-the accell kit requires a ground wire(part of the harness supplied) which I have at a good ground.With the changes in timing and advance at idle and adjusting the idle speed on the carb it will run fairly  well in drive(warmed up fully) enough that I can drive it.I am going to leave things as is and run the motor for awhile and hopefully as it breaks in the idle issue will improve.Run a couple of tankfuls of fresh gas through the carb.Marvs mention of the ignition switch is another thing to look at.After having checked out any possible problems that might cause damage to the new motor such as retarded cam gear or incorrect timing or low ignition voltage I feel I should just drive it and see if things improve as mileage accumulates.Other than the idle issue it seems like a successful rebuild(knock on wood).Great oil pressure(65psi at 50-60 30psi+ at idle) and lots of oil to the top end which is something I wanted to improve on with this rebuild.(I had the oil groove machined deeper to .032 thanks Marvh)'.No fluid leaks like coolant or oil.Starts within seconds of turning the key.No strange noises.Thanks for all the input from everyone.If I find there is something actually causing this idle issue I will post it.Might help someone else.

  

According to the Accell instruction sheet, the Accell conversion requires the ballast resistor to be installed as they say on the instructions that the life of the unit will be compromised if 12 Volts is continually applied to the unit.

I see this post ties into your other post regarding idle in drive.

I know this may sound stupid, but most problems with our cars are ridiculously simple to fix.

With the KISS principle in mind, have you attached a dwell meter to the coil/distributor to check that you have the correct dwell as this is the easiest way to lose spark voltage, assuming that the coil is OK.

Another idea may be to replace the Accell unit with a set of points and condensor to see if that makes any difference.

I have been caught myself in the past, trying to fix idle and running issues, thinking it was valve timing, carb settings and a simple check of the dwell located the problem.

I hope this helps.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Hey Rick! The instruction sheet with the coil says remove the ballast resistor because these are internally resisted(as I read it).The accel instructions say keep the resistor UNLESS you use one of their recommended coils(as I understand the instructions).I did a search on the site for this particular question and found nothing.The Pertronix unit when used with their Flamethrower coil does not use a resistor.Does anyone else know which is correct when using the Accel unit?By the way I agree with your KISS thing.As far as checking dwell I dont think it can be done on a pointless ignition system like Pertronix or my Accel conversion-can it?Or did you mean if I switch it for points to try it?I actually still have my Loadomatic setup which I could swap in just to try it at idle in drive -see if it changes anything.

  

Mark - If the Accel instructions don't say exactly what the primary resistance of the coil must be - then check the spec's of the recommended coils. By comparing the resistance of the Accel parts with the MSD coil, you will soon see if the switching transistor can survive the current load. 

These units typically use a "power transistor" to ground the coil (replacing the points as a switch). The early Pertronix "ignitor" for instance needed at least 1.50 Ohms of coil primary resistance to provide a current limit - this Accel unit may not need that much protection but you propably can find out how much it does need.

Later design units will tolerate a coil with less resistance - but they also incorporate a current limit that cuts back the "dwell" as the rpms drop - and increases it as the rpms rise.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve! Do you happen to know the resistance value of the stock Ford ballast?these Flamethrowers have built in value of 1.5 ohms. If that is close to Ford ballast value it should be fine with the accel unit.

  

Steve! In the Ford shop manual under coil specs it shows primary cuircuit resistance as 1.40-1.54 ohms.The resistor is shown as 1.30-1.40.I would take that to mean resistance is provided by the separate resistor.The Flamethrower has builtin resistance of 1.5 ohms.I dont think the additional resistor is needed.I think the requirement by Accel to use the resistor refers to using the stock coil.What do you think?