Mark - The resistance is summed..... so the 1.5 OHM coil primary plus the ballast resistor end up being near 3.0 OHMs total. If the electronic unit will handle total OHMs as low as 1.50 - go with that (no ballast resistor).    

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve! I just submitted this question to the Accel Tech people.Should get a clear answer from them hopefully Monday.

  

I got an answer back from Accel regarding the need for additional resistor.Because there is 1.5 ohm resistance in the coil an additional resistor is NOT required.

  

It is hard with the solid state ignition systems to see what they are doing.

Have you got the ignition module wired correctly with the correct polarity of the coil?

Try putting your original dissy back or put a set of points in the converted dissy and get the dwell correct and then see how it goes.

By setting up the standard ignition system you will establish whether the module is faulty/ working correctly.

Make sure that your plugs are correctly gapped and lastly are you using the correct plug leads. The Accell instructions say not to use copper wound plug leads with the module. The resistive type plug leads fitted to late model cars do break down in time.

The way I was taught to check them is that if the total resistance of any plug wire ( when added to the resistance of the coil wire) exceeds 20Kohm (20,000 ohms) replace the leads.

As has been said earlier it does seem as if you have a weak spark or poor earth in the electrics.

I hope you get to the bottom of the problem soon.

It certainly takes the fun out of driving when they are not right,

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Thanks Rick! I have the points and condenser and screws that were in the distributor before I converted it.The dizzy was a "new" rebuilt unit so the points etc are new unused.I am seriously thinking of putting it back and seeing if any difference.I just did a compression test today.Motor hot and choke and throttle wide open.3-4 compression strokes show 125-130 in ALL cylinders.Thats a fresh motor with 125 miles on it.I also reset the valves to .020 clearance cold.Now I can hear them at startup.Nothing has changed.Still refuses to idle in gear.I really doubt the problem is mechanical in the motor itself.Looking for something else.The wires are NOT solid core.They were new last year and total resistance is well under your suggestions.Appreciate your input.Will report when I do find the reason AND I WILL FIND IT! 

  

I am sure you will find it.

You know the engine is good. The rings would not have done enough work yet to fully bed in.

When you do find the problem you will feel a bit like the bloke with the apple falling on his head. EUREKA!!

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Thanks Rick. I did the compression just to verify that there was not something mechanically wrong with my assembly of the motor.One more tick on my checkoff list of possible  reasons why it wont run properly.

  

Mark:

Somewhere you stated that the problem started before you rebuilt the engine.  You need to look at things that were NOT changed during the rebuild.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Hello John! I had a problem with it at the end of last summer.It started running rough at low speed in drive when stopped at a light for instance.Now wether I am still having the same problem or something different not sure.I am going to pull the distributor and put the points and cond. back in.See if that makes a difference.Trying to cover all possible suspects.I sent another question to the Accel techs asking if it was possible for the module to act up only in certain conditions.Havent heard back yet.Thanks for the info on checking timing gear orientation.

  

Still working on trying to get it idling properly in drive.I pulled the distributor and re-installed the points and condensor just to be sure the electronic ignition was not causing problem.No improvement.Re-installed the Accel kit.Replaced plugs with new ones just to be sure I dont have one that was misfiring.No better.Pulled the carb(again) and cleaned out air bleeds,idle ports etc with compressed air.Reset timing to 10 BTDC and used vacuum gauge to set idle mixture.Idles in neutral with about 18 vacuum.Put it in drive and drops to 14.Slight improvement in idle quality in drive I think.In order to get the idle speed high enough to (sort of) idle in drive the ported vacuum in the carb becomes fulltime vacuum.Not a great problem but before redoing motor it would run without speed being increased enough to uncover that port in carb.I think I can safely assume the ignition is not the problem and there are no vacuum leaks and mechanically the motor is right as far as timing gears done correctly etc.The carb is a 390 cfm Holley which was purchased as a  rebuilt couple of years ago.I have installed 58 main jets(last year).The mix screws work properly and I have tightened all screws etc.I am not an expert on carbs.Is it possible that I need to go a bigger size main jet?What is the effect  of increasing the jet size on the idle circuit of the carb or is there an effect?If I set the parking brake with the trans in drive, I can increse the idle speed(opening throttle by hand) a  fair amount without the car moving forward .To me that means the torque converter is working correctly.Anyway,I think I am looking at something other than ignition or trans problem.Any input regarding my jetting question is appreciated.With about 125 miles on it the (old)plugs loooked light tan and definitely not rich.