I just checked the voltage on my ballast resistor.With key on and motor not running I have the same voltage in(12.6) as what comes out and feeds the coil.Should it not be 9.6 approx on the output side?I thought these resistors simply quit working altogether and the voltage would be zero comming out if they went bad?

  

Mark:

Voltage should be about 10 volts with the engine running.  If you checked it with the engine off and the points open, you would read battery voltage.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Generally speaking the voltage output should be around 8 Volts with the key on - depending on the battery, whether the engine is running or not. The resistor may show less voltage when the engine is running, though the difference should be very slight.

The reading you are getting would suggest that the resistor is shorting out, being bypassed by the starter solenoid or that the coil is open circuit.

Why were you checking the output to the coil.

Check the output of the resistor with the engine running.

Check that you haven't got a problem with the wire coming from the starter solenoid to the resistor - this bypasses the resistor for starting purposes. You can do this by removing it from the solenoid. To find which one to remove, it is the one that doesn't cause the solenoid to pull in.

I hope this helps.

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I am wondering too. What are you trying to determine?

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Still working on my problem.I was checking to make sure the ignition was getting the full 12 volts initially.Just noticed the readings in and out of the resistor were the same.

  

Mark - What idle speed do you use for the neutral condition - when you have raised it to accomodate the "in-drive drop" what is the difference - like how far does it pull down? and at what speed can it just "hold its own"? I think you already know these numbers - I just couldn't find them too quickly in the thread.

You can "hop-up" the ignition (to see if a stronger spark helps at all) by temporarily jumpering around the ballast resistor. It should always do this while starting (bypass wire from the solenoid) - not the best plan for a long test - but OK for a minute or two while evaluating the effect of more energy in the spark. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

OldCarMark,

You will get the same voltage reading on both sides of the ballast resistor if not running and no electrical load from coil, that is normal.  The average voltage will drop on the coil side when wired and running properly (this is the general basis on which Dwell Meters work, too - time on/total time*system voltage = average voltage across points displayed as % dwell): Resistors will not drop voltage unless there's a load on them; i. e., current being drawn through by a load.

Hope that this helps you.

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

Oldcarmark, Is your actual problem in another post, or just what is your problem that you are trying to chase down?

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Kenneth! I am trying to figure out why I cant get this motor running at least resonably well in drive.I have eliminated the carb and timing.The cam gear is not retarded one tooth as was suggested as a possible problem.All I am doing now is checking other possible reasons for poor performance in drive.Thought perhaps the ignition is not getting full voltage available.At the end of last summer I started to have problems with the motor not running well in drive.I rebuilt the motor as I thought the problem was related to mechanical condition as far as uneven compression.The motor was in need of a rebuild once I got it torn down.Still having similar problems.Wether its the same trouble that started last year or a new problem I am not sure.I do have confidence that the motor I assembled is not the cause of the problem I am having.Looking for anything that would fix the bad idle in drive.

  

Hello Steve! I am working without a tach.I have a timing light and vacuum gauge.Set by ear and vacuum gauge in neutral it runs great at about 750.Drop it in gear and it dies.Turn it up to about 900 and it runs so so.To get it running reasonably well in gear ends up at about (est) 1200 -1400 RPM which  when shifted to neutral or park is excessive.Putting it in gear with parking brake on is a fight to get the rpms up by adjusting the idle speed screw.3-4 turns to increase speed.At 750 in neutral it acts like air has been cut off when shifted into drive.Basically instantly quits.Best way I can describe it.As the idle speed is increased with the speed screw the ported vacuum opening is exposed causing the advance to kick in.Not a big deal but the timing advances by about 10 degrees.That port is not supposed to be open until you are off idle and moving.Never had this problem with this carb last year prior to rebuilding the motor.In neutral it runs great.Once you are moving after off idle its fine.Lots of power and accelerates fine.Transmission shifts fine.If this was manual trans you would never notice a problem.