On my 56 Victoria I have 3" lowering blocks in the rear. Because of this I can't use the traction bar mount that bolts to the bottom of the spring. It sets the scrub line about 2" below the rim. The question is with the aluminum lowering blocks if I drill a hole through in line with the axle tube It sets the only decent rear location for the traction bar. Other spots interfere with shocks or exhaust. From this point I can run the bar level forward to the front spring mount and weld the front bracket on there. I figure with the lowering block clamped down tightly the aluminum should be able to take the horizontal stress.  Any comments or Ideas? Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

You should look at the 65 and early 66 Shelby GT 350 overide track bar setup. They welded a tab on the axle tube above the axle and ran the bar forward. Worked very well.

I did look at overiders. With the car as low as it is there isn't enough room to put them on top of the spring. Hits the rear frame kick up too quickly. I checked to the inside of the shock but I'd have to make a cross member for the front mounts. I was hoping someone had the same problem and had found a solution. I think drilling through the lowering block then using a thru bolt to fasten the bar to the inside would work ok. That was the only place where the front and rear would both line up straight with no interference. Just not sure of the strength needed to anchor the bar. Thanks, Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Still think you ought to consider the "reaction style" bar/arm that rigidly attaches to the rear end housing and pivots at a single point in line with the tranny exit universal joint. Its the factory set-up on the GM car I use as a daily driver (02 Z28). I've seen some versions that bolt onto Ford 9 inch carrier studs.

Big advantage - absolutely holds pinion angle - will not allow allow axle to wind-up spring around wheel axis. But does not interfere with leaf springs, lowering blocks, shock mounts etc. To race you need to preload right rear - but to cruise - spring rates are best the same both sides. Put one airlift bag at the right rear to handle racing preload (when required).    

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Now I hadn't thought of that. Plenty of ground clearance and shouldn't be that hard to make up. Thanks, Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Chuck - This weekend was "Street Rodder Days" in Tucson and way over a hundred cars showed up. I found an example with the simple reaction link I described before - but the camera first said "card full" and then "battery low" (the deadly duo). My wife also took exception to me crawling along looking under all of the toys. Such is life.

The link had a single heim joint clamped up to a simple bracket adjacent to the tailshaft housing/u-joint. (Looks to me like a big Moog tie rod end would work fine for this application - mounted horizontally into a tapered hole block - and then it would have a grease zerk and threads for length adjustment). The other end appeared to be rigidly bolted to tabs welded onto the rear end housing - bolts looked 1/2" or bigger and seperated vertically by maybe 6 inches or more. Fabbed out of small square tubing for the most part. One observation I could make - looks to me like whatever you build needs a "safety" loop on the front end just like a driveshaft - having a reaction link fall down would have a similar ugly effect.

There were four vehicles with Y-blocks - one was a very nice, hammered 50 Merc with Mercury valve covers. I now know why it is so hard to find decent Y-block T-bird valve covers - the other three engines were in fat fendered Ford trucks and two sported the shiney bird parts. All had four barrel intakes of the Ford variety - 3 Edelbrocks and 1 Holley in the mix (I'm taking a personal survey). If the Y-block would become as popular as a street rod engine as the flattie - we would have nifty hard parts running out our ears..........

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Chuck - Did you ever get started on building one of these torque arm set-ups? or did something better occur to you?

That turnbuckle looks like a nice addition (adjusts the pinion nose angle) and so does the shackle up front (adds fore and aft float).

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Chuck, type in traction-master co. and look at what they have to offer. That's what I'm running on my T-bird and thus far they've done an outstanding job and are easy to install and not too expensive. Their Ph: 818-565 1121  Fax 565-565 1151

-Gary Burnette-