Sort of bittersweet this afternoon. For the first time in a while, I got the chance to do some tinkering on my ECZ block that I am planning to mount the VS57 on soon. I took it out to flush the block and the radiator, so this is the longest it has run with the rebuilt 4 barrel (and fenderwell exit headers ).

If you listen to the video, you can hear a popping sound (sounds high pitched on the recording, but believe me, it sounds like backfire) on the driver's side header. One of the valves?

I double checked the timing a couple of times just to be sure, and played with a little retarding (knowing I am going to mount the blower eventually). I left it at 10 degrees advance, but could not get it to "idle" either, even though the throttle set screw was backed all the way out, and I double checked the secondaries were not even remotely open. The idle set screws would not respond, but then again, this engine was way above idle, and I am sure that the idle circuits were being bypassed.

This did not happen with the 2 barrel I had previously, nothing changed until I added the teapot (which I modified the jets, passageways, etc)...any of you blower boys have any ideas here?

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg208/danaxjessup/?action=view&current=100_3985.mp4

Click the above link to see the video...

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Dan, do a quick check and remove valve covers, not uncommon for sticking valve, resulting in dropped push rod on new engine? jjust a thought. regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I would suspect a bad valve spring or something as simple as a bad header gasket. That is if you have already ruled out a bad cap,rotor,ignition wire or a tight valve



Pete

Dan, Vacuum leak? 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I think I would need to hear it in person, didn't really sound like a dead cylinder to me.  Kinda sounded like a bad lifter tic though.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Tim, you hear what sounds like a lifter tick.  I hear a pop in the exhaust when Dan lets off the throttle.  I also think there may be an exhaust gasket or tube leak, Dan.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I hear the "Pop" too but with open headers on decell it seems only natural.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I haven't pulled the valve cover yet, but I did check all the spark plugs on that side. Only #8 showed anything slightly "unaverage".

Maybe the headers are now the difference in what I hear, but it is definitely only the drivers side that has anything remotely abnormal.

Basically, I believe that I ruled out anything that has to do with the ignition (cap, points, rotor, wires, etc), but isn't the popping backfire a problem when a cylinder sees a spark at the wrong time? or maybe residual spark somehow?

Still do not know why the idle will not come down. The only thing that I can think of is that I installed the butterflies on the throttle shaftbackwards??? I will have to pull the carb next because once the idle set screw is backed all the way off, the choke fast idle cam is backed off, etc, this thing will not respond with an idle change at all. It acts like part throttle is open. It is getting air from somewhere right? You can see the secondary butterflies as the engine runs with the blower carb hat off, and they are definitely closed.

Another item. I did check the vacuum at idle when I had the two barrel on the engine (at idle it was steady at 18 in).

One thing I will say...this engine seems to be very responsive to throttle changes with only the mechanical advance (I plugged the vacuum advance port on the carb plugged)

thanks for all these ideas

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Sounds great! Come on out to the east coast - I'll put you up!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Dan:

On the throttle lever side of the carb, the secondary throttle arm has a slot, and a wire link connected to the primary arm slides in this slot.  If the link is too long, it will bottom out in the top of the slot and prevent the primary throttle from closing all the way.  Bend the link until there is a little slack.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"