Pat may have the situating "pegged" (no pun intended!)

If I remember, that shaft is hollow on that pump rod - time to break out some good ol' JB or epoxy.

Fellas, check out my other posts in the This and That section to see updated photos of the entire setup. I did get the air cleaner mounted with the portable engine-run stand tonight. I really like the looks of this thing! Wait until I clean it up and paint

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Pete, He's running a teapot. Different bag of snakes from your experience!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

The rod that pushes the acclerator pump may be hollow and will need to be filled with epoxy(jbweld) to stop the fuel leak from the accelerator pump.    The blower carbs had a solid shaft, while the regular carbs used it as a vent.   Just plug and one more problem gone.

Pat Fleischman

Dan,

You need to "boost reference" your throttle shafts to stop the leak since the boost is trying to force it's way out any way it can. I built a dual paxton set up for a 427 Ford many years ago a had to deal with all of the same issues. Anyway for the throttle shafts I found ,perhaps through Paxton I can't recall, aluminum spacers to go between the carb and Intake. They looked like a spacer used to hook up a pcv valve. Difference was they had a hose nipple in the back and 4 holes drilled under the throttle shafts, right between the throttle plates and the outboard shaft exits. By drilling corresponding holes in the carb base plates and connecting a boost line to the hose nipple you equlize the pressure in the throttle shafts and prevent the leak. If you wanted to run a more modern Holley carb you would do one additional mod where you would "boost refference" the float bowls by putting a screw in fitting (hose nipple) into the top of the bowl and connecting that to boost as well. This way the pressure is equalized in the float bowls . Otherwise the boost will try to blow the fuel back into the bowl and not down the venturi's. As for the fuel pump I ran an electric along with a "boost refferenced" mechanical pump. The trick is to modify a Holley fuel pressure regulator and "boost refference" that as well. That way as your boost increases so does your fuel pressure. If you call Paxton you may be able to buy the spacer plate and the modified fuel pressure regulator from them. If that doesn't work let me know and I can give you another source.

Pete

A vacuum leak could cause your fast idle with no way to get it down and the popping noise you hear. A couple minutes spent spraying some carb cleaner around suspected vacuum leak sites could locate the problem. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Welp, miracle of miracles...I hooked up the blower and the carb hat after removing the teapot and "adjusting" the butterflies to fully close, and what do you know? The booger fired up after a couple of revs and idled nicely. Blower is making boost (need to get my gauge on there), no weird noises, and that leak that I thought I had is not there any more. No extra fluid coming out between the two sections of blower casing. Why that is, I don't know, but I will definitely keep an eye on it.

One item I do have is a small carb leak where the accelerator pump shaft is located. Nothing at idle, but when I blip the throttle I can see a little bit of seepage of gasoline...YIKES! I guess I need to revisit the paxton manual and find out what else I may have done "wrong" on the modifications. I thought I had that shaft sealed up. Looks like an o-ring might be the next logical step to get that right.

Now, I have yet to modify the fuel pump, and/or make any fuel pressure upgrades, so I am obviously a little bit leary about running the motor at anything more than an idle - she will just run out of fuel in the bowl. I do have a brand new FE hi flow mechanical pump that flows up to 9 psi - that should be good, just a little concerned about over powering the teapot float/needle system in the bowl.

I have not modified the distributor yet because I have no vacuum advance hooked up, so its all mechanical advance from here on out.

Promise to get video of the blower setup up on the internet very soon!!!   

Way Cool! Especially since my dad was in town this weekend and got to see the whole works!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Frank,

I never did hook up the vacuum advance...I used a threaded plug to block off that port on the carb itself.

The more I tinker on this thing, the more I believe that I need to go through that carb with a microscope. Something is causing that thing to get more air/fuel mix (when I have the butterflies closed) than is common...otherwise I would be able to get that idle down where it needs to be. Really don't want to change carbs, I am sure something off the shelf would be much easier, but where is the fun in that? Why not take hours chasing down problems that you only created for yourself???

On another note, check this link...will this vacuum regulated fuel bowl help the situation for giving me more fuel pressure when I need it? I am going with a Hi Volume FE fuel pump with a Mr Gasket electric pump to help the pressure when we go into high boost...

ebay #: 370399635679

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Surging.

 Remove the vacuum hookup to the distributor and see if the surge dissappears. It's possible that you are seeing the distributor advance and retard as the manifold vacuum changes.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

The saga continues. I got the idle down to 6-800, but it sounded like it was "surging". When I stuck my hand on the slotted arm that is peened on to the secondary throttle shaft, the idle smoothed out and slowed down. Let go of it, and it started "acting up again". The shaft itself seems to be pretty well solid in its bushings, and I thought that the secondary butterflies were installed correctly -- at this point any mistake is possible !

It takes a while for the carb to respond to the idle mixture screws - I believe because the idle is so high, it is almost irrelevant to even adjust them, but I did get responses from lean to rich that showed up in the way the engine ran and in the smell of the exhaust.

After chasing it for a while, I gave up and had supper with the family and installed several outlets and ran a bunch of wire in the garage - at least that went according to plan!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

John, thanks for the tip, and when I got home tonight, I decided to just remove the carb and go over it. Plenty of slack available, so that wasn't my problem, but when I turned the carb over, I found what looked like my issue - the butterflies were not completely closed although the throttle shaft was ok. I flipped the butterflies over and I could tell that it made a difference. More room on the idle set screw (not a whole bunch, but enough to make a difference I feel - this engine has good vacuum).

Too late to fire it off tonight,,, my 7 year old son wouldn't mind waking up to the Y block, but momma and the girls might have a few issues...

I should have some time to fire it up again tomorrow afternoon.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com