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Bad Torque Converter?

Posted By Rods 15 Years Ago
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Rods
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I have had the carb rebuilt and the hot rod shop thinks I may have a bad TC on my 57 Bird. When you put in reverse, it has a tendency to die unless you give it gas (good push of the pedal) Sometimes will do that when you start out moving forward from park as well. Never did this before I had the dist & carb rebuilt. Is there a way of testing a TC without tearing the tranny out to get to it? If you have a bad TC does it act up all the time and how would that "acting up" be?



Appreciate your input.



Rod


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oldcarmark
Posted 15 Years Ago
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There is nothing in the torque convertor that would cause this problem.You would not get drive or reverse if the convertor was gone.I had similar problem with mine when i installed my rebuilt motor this spring.Took me awhile to sort out the carb idle adjustment,distributor,timing and fuel pump pressure.Acted just like yours does and at that time I was sure there was a problem with the TC.The carb is either not properly adjusted for idle speed OR they have done something wrong when they rebuilt the carb.What carb is on yours.The old style teapot or the 4150 Holley(new style)?

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Dennis K.
Posted 15 Years Ago
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In the operation of a torque converter the Reactor One Way Clutch (OWC) locks until the Turbine Speed reaches approximately 90% of engine speed.  After that point the OWC begins to overrun or freewheel eliminating the torque multiplication and acting strictly as a 1:1 fluid coupling.

If the Reactor OWC fails to lock up there will be no torque multiplication and acceleration will be sluggish. 

If the OWC is locked up all the time the converter will always act as a torque multiplier and will usually generate excessive heat.  

You should be able to perform a stall test to check the torque converter stall speed,  along with a road test to check torque conveter function.  A Ford Shop Manual will explain how to do this.

Regards,

Dennis

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Several years back they switched form the original Holley to a weber (edelbrock). I agree with you that it is a timing/carb issue. I would have thought the hot rod shot I took it to would be able to figure that out. With the timing chain & dist being replaced and this carb being rebuilt. Sounds like culprit to me. Just not sure where to start to correct issue. Let me ask this question....



If the carb was too big for the motor, would it respond this way? How would an engine respond if the carb was too big?



Thanks



Rod

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Rods
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Dennis,



I have plenty of torque and very quick response if I get on the gas. In low it will spin the tires. so if I am understanding you, it probably isn't the TC in your opinion.. if I have power and no drag.



Rod

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A weak ignition system or a battery that’s not up to snuff will also give some grief when trying to get an engine to idle with the automatic transmission ‘engaged’.  I saw this recently where the installation of a Pertronix ignition conversion kit in the distributor on a ’56 Ford remedied issues that were present where the engine was originally wanting to die when putting the engine in gear.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


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I have replaced the battery recently and checked the voltage. Dist was rebuilt and vacuum is working correctly. Just got back from mechanic and he thinks the problem of the stalling and dying at stop is 2 fold. The old edlebrock we rebuilt does have lots of pits and corrosion in the body itself from sitting so long. Fuel tank was boiled, cleaned and resealed. Nothing is showing in the fuel bowl either. He adjusted the timing up to compensate more so it is at 13-15 degree TDC now. He thinks the dying might be due to the carb condition and the stalling when you put in gear is the ford-o-matic TC.



I am just frustrated to all end. It never did this until we rebuilt the dist, replaced timing chain and rebuilt carb. I have to be missing something simple. Everyone I have spoken to, not to mention the posts above say that the TC going bad is not likely. Besides, when you do it it gas, and get on the road it is a speed demon!.



Anything else I can check to see where the problem lies? Appreciate everyone's input.



R


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oldcarmark
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I see you replaced the timing chain.Did your guy know how to set up the chain as far as the location of the timing marks on the gears.The marks face right when looking at front of motor.There should be I believe 15 pins between the marks.Most late models have the gear marks aligned vertically as in cam mark at bottom and crank gear mark at top even with each other.Other question is.When you rebuilt dist did the little braided ground wire get put back in and are the points grounded by that wire to the distributor body under the breaker plate? I think you can forget a problem with the TC.As I mentioned before I was having same problem stalling in gear.Was a combination of timing,carb and fuel pump pressure.

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charliemccraney
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Rods (7/29/2010)
It never did this until we rebuilt the dist, replaced timing chain and rebuilt carb.





I can think of 3 places you need to check and double check.


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Posted 15 Years Ago
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Mark:

It is 12 pins between the timing marks, not 15.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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