if using the old nut use blue lock tite on the nut threads, install untill no end play  then torgue to 50 ft lbs,  then stake the edge of the nut  and you should be O/K  works for me  shakey Pete

Worked at Ford dealers for 40+ years and have replaced my share of pinion seals on all of their axle styles. In all that time I can't recall replacing the crush sleeve when all I was doing was putting a seal in. But then my old man was a good teacher. Go back and put a new crush sleeve and seal in (you might try to replace the pinion nut also if you can find one) and tigthen it like the guys have said here. Tigthen it slowly, old bearings are not very forgiving. You should be fine. Besides, the last few years I watched 20yr old kids replace them and they didn't have a clue what thet were doing.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

My pinion seal is leaking. I can't believe you have to go through all this for a simple seal replacement. I don't doubt it but it's nuts! I just replaced the front pads on my Navigator. Ford has a sorry idea there too. A nightmare!

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

 

Sorry, I did not know you could replace the crush sleeve with the pinion gear still in the housing. Don't mean to give bad info..

WTB 1955 Courier emblems    Mark, Jefferson City Missouri

BUT..there is absolutely no way to set proper pinion bearing preload with the pinion installed.  I've "backyarded" that fix the same way you did with reasonable success a number of times,but I slightly deformed the pinion nut in a vise or staked the nut after torquing and used red loctite during the final assembly.  If you're not going to take that pinion out, I think you'd be better off redoing what you did except help the nut stay tight using the backyard method.  In my opinion you have a much better chance of success doing that as opposed to guessing the preload using a new crush sleeve.  If you've never crushed a new one before, it can be an eye opening experience. 

Thanks again for the info. I'm sure this will help me.  Dave

SE Wis

You don't have to take the rear end apart to replace the sleeve. If you have put in a seal you were almost there. You just go in a little further, removing the bearing (race is pressed in so you don't have to remove it) and the next piece is the crush sleeve. You should be able to pick one of these up through a company the repairs rears or maybe even Ford. I think you can even get them through Macs. When you remove the old bearing take a close look at it for wear.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

With a new crush sleeve in place, you tighten the pinion nut until there is a slight drag on the pinion bearings.  If using a torque wrench to measure the drag, then 15-18 in/lbs of drag will suffice with used bearings.  It will be a higher value for new bearings.  For those of us with more experience with these rears, making a solid spacer the correct thickness in lieu of using a crush sleeve is the alternative method but the spacer thickness is critical to 0.001" so it's not for the faint of heart.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The rearend must be taken apart to put in the crush sleeve. It goes on the pinion rear.

WTB 1955 Courier emblems    Mark, Jefferson City Missouri

I have heard of a crush sleeve. Is that obtainable from NAPA and do you just tighten down the pinion yoke nut as tight as you can to set the preload?  Thanks  Dave

SE Wis