Yes. You are correct about shop manual procedure.However these boxs are now 50+ years old.The proper procedure would work well with new or newer boxs but at this point with old worn parts its "do the best you can".By the way Joblot.com has both gears and a seal and bearing kit for the 2 tooth 55 early 56 boxs and most parts for the later 3 tooth box if anyone is interested in rebuilding theirs. 

  

I need to dig out my shop manual to check, but as I recall you attach a scale to the steering wheel and check the resistance in pounds or mayby ounces and adjust accordingly. Never did it that way but will try to find manual.

If it was from an Ozzie car would it say "this side up" OR "this side down"?

  

Does it have " this side up"  stamped on it >??



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

You could do away with the star washer and use normal nut like next model box has.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Yes indeedy! in fact it has "this side up" stamped on it...



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I am sure you realize the "star" lifts off to allow more turns of the screw?Just thought I would mention it just in case.

  

Ohh I couldn't get two notches on the star... one tops! I backed it off within the one postion of the star



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I just readjusted mine.Turn the screw CC enough to move the star adjuster 2 notches.Seems to have got it.Have a liitle freeplay driving straight and the wheel returns almost to centre when comming out of a turn.I am going to leave it there for now.

  

When we used to repair steering boxes we always set them up so it had a slight drag when you turned it thru center. Center meaning the wheels straight ahead. It was a much easier "feel" when the box was on the bench. Get it too tight and it would wander going down the road. Maybe you could disconnect the linkage at the Pitman arm for a better "feel". My .02

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409