Good point! I'd forgotten all about that.

Remember that if you change the oil pan to a front sump type, you need to change the dip stick location to the front and plug the dip stick hole near the side motor mount.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Thanks for all the help guys, that's a lot of good information. The engine that's going in there has the car pulley & pump, so I'll just swap the front cover and oil pan. As for the headers, the engine is stock so I'm going for looks more than performance. I'm glad the speedway headers are decent parts. They have the best price I've come across so far, which made me a little wary.

FYI,

The headers shown in the photo posted by mctim64 are mine and were purchased from Speedway motors.  These are their chassis headers for pickups.  Before I purchased them I called to verify specs and ensure they were made in the USA.  Unlike most others of similar design they have mandrel bent 1 5/8" primaries with 3" collectors.  They are made from 16 gauge steel and the flange is 3/8".  Some of the others are 18 gauge with 5/16" flanges.  They were the best pre-made headers I could find that would fit my pickup.  The price is not bad either.  Also, they have a local shop do the ceramic coating.  The coating is, however, only on the outside of the header.  Also, after doing quite a bit of reading on header design the consensus is the full length (36" or longer headers) work better for engines in the "street" (lower) RPM ranges.  Since my truck is not raced and driven on the street this was another deciding factor for purchasing chassis headers.  If you have the talent and resources building your own will probably be the best bet.  If you want a nice set of chassis headers for a fair price that are made in the USA then I think Speedway are a good deal.  Hope this helps.

   

1956 F100 Big Window 309ci Y-block,  1956 F100 small window 272ci Y-block

Greg.  Mountains of North Eastern CA

It’s just a time issue right now in getting the 312 mule engine back on the dyno and getting into a dedicated exhaust system test.  Just prior to doing this, there are a couple of different ported iron heads that must be tested first but I’ll take the opportunity to run at least three different headers on that first pair of ported heads just so some preliminary and additional data will be generated.  Based on the random testing that been performed up till now, stock and unported heads do not respond as well to exhaust system upgrades which means the ‘big’ test will be done with ported heads.  And the ported heads planned for the ‘big’ test are what I would consider run of the mill ported heads or heads that are easily duplicated in porting attributes by the typical home porter.

 

But at this point, there’s quite a bit of data on some of the other Y engines that have been run on the dyno with various exhausts.  As soon as I can download this data from the dyno computer to the home computer, I’ll start posting graphs displaying some of the horsepower and torque curves with some of the different exhausts tried up to this point.  The big test though will still be the dyno mule with a set of normally ported iron heads with all the various exhaust systems that are on hand tried in a back to back fashion.  I’m still looking at mid November for that test.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

You can use the car damper with 1956 and later truck pump and pulley. The truck pump is longer but the pulley is deeper and the belt ends up in the same place. Belt width changed to narrow belt in 1957.

As Charley pointed out you can use car pump, pulley and damper. Just change the timing cover and install front mount. 57-60 front mounts are the same.

61-64 front mounts are a different style with a single bolt in the center.

Any year truck pan will fit but the later ones have a baffle, which should be added to early pans.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

I like the sandersons that Charlie has on the "Brick" although we are going with 1 3/4" primaries on the next set I think the 1 1/2" are fine for the street.  The ones I have on my pickup work fine too but I don't know who the manufacturer is since I got them off of a parts truck I bought a few years back.  They look just like these.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

ive mixed and matched pulleys all my life and dont remember any difference.

There is something different about the spacing of the truck pulleys. I remember the water pump being about 1/4" longer so that means some if not all of the truck pulleys are different. The car stuff will work; if you use all car hardware you will be fine.



RE truck headers, the big difference in cost depends on how they are coated. Cheaper ones are typically only painted. I know Red's are available with or without ceramic coating which is about a $225.00 difference for the same header. Other than the coatings, they are all pretty much the same, 1 1/2" primaries with the most significant variation being long or short tubes.

I have Red's stubbies they fit and they get the exhaust gasses from the heads to the pipes. I suspect that's about all they do. From what I've learned in the past year, a 1 1/2" primary header really isn't the way to go. If I did it again, I'd either build my own headers or buy new rams horns. It's not necessarily that the rams horns perform better I just think they look better. It would be cool if Jerry would get a truck header on the market. Ted's EMC headers look almost like they could work.

Hopefully we'll know more about headers and manifolds soon. Ted??


Lawrenceville, GA

Mine are Sanderson.  I have had no problems and think I paid $225 +/- $25.

Warsaw, IN