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I had the same problem with endplay on mine.The timing would actually change as the shaft rode up and down.There is a shim kit to correct this as you mentioned.I believe the specs are 026-.050.The closer you get to minimum the more accurate the timing.There have been a couple of poor rebuilds reported with worn cams and endplay so you do need to have a look before you install it.The other thing to check is the distance from the shoulder on the body that sits against the block and the driving gear.It should be VERY close to the original measurement with all vertical freeplay at specs and compressed to remove ALL freeplay before measuring.Like everything else manufactured these days-theres always 1-2 defective ones.

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I bought one of the Cardon remanufctured distributors and a Mr Gasket advance spring kit. When I tore the distributor down to put in the springs, I found that the rebuilders had put in a mismatched set of springs. One looked correct but the other was much bigger in wire size and so long that the advance plate could only retract about half way. The shaft also had too much end play in the bushings (about 80/1,000s) so I put in a shim to bring it down to 30/1,000s. I'd suggest that anyone buying one of their distributors should check it closely before installation, but at $52 including shipping from Autozone, the price can't be beat.
Larry
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The slots in the advance cam always come with 2 choices.Mine came with 13L and 18L(seems to be most common) which I used the 13L slot giving 26 degrees at the crank.If you dial in about 10 initial timing and set the vacuum can for 6-8 you end up with between 42-44 total advance which is about max timing you want.I used the 2 replacement springs together however you can always mix with one old one or even carefully bend the anchor posts through the breaker plate to custom setup the advance curve.The best way to setup the distributor is with one of the old Sun distributor machines if you can find an old tyme shop that still has one..Steve(Greenbird56) is a real wizard at setting up timing improvements and really understands the theory of what changes to make.There are also several good articles on the internet all about timing mods and theory.I never realized until recently that the vacuum advance comes back in when you reach cruising speed and engine vacuum is high again.Improving engine performance is NOT all cams and carbs and even a stock motor like mine benefitted from working on the distributor.One other thought.You should have ALL your total advance in by the time you get to your maximum operating RPM.Not much good if its not in until 3500 RPM and the most you run to is 3000 RPM.You should reallistically aim for all in by 2800 RPM or so.

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Guys if I get one of these reco dissys I take it that the timing slots are hit and miss as to what you get? Mark did you use all the springs in the kit or did you mix and match old & new? Will it make any difference if I use the Petronix kit as to points to how the springs work or will it be close?
   
"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"
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Before you install it put the spring kit in.Its a little more tricky working the rear distributor in the car.Small parts can disappear pretty easily.The vacuum can you adjust on the car.I think you will be surprised at how much better it runs with a little fine tuning.There are several topics on this subject if you do a search or maybe someone will post the topics.

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Hi everyone, Wow, I don't check back for a few days and there are two full pages of posts! Thanks for all the advice. I decided to just order one. I got one shipped from Rockauto along with a bunch of other parts. I still think I'm going to buy a spring kit and play with the advance once the engine is up and running. Thanks again, Nick
'60 F100 with '62 4V 292 y-block
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Try Autozone.com

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I JUST GOT ONE FROM ADVANCE AUTO PARTS $43.00 PLUS $10.00 CORE CHARGE. IT WOULD TAKE ME LONGER TO DIG A CORE OUT OF THE SHED, THAN TO PAY THE $10.00 CORE CHARGE.. HOPE THIS HELPS TOM
JUST A MIDNIGHT CRUISE DOWN THUNDER ROAD!!! TOM DRUMMOND MIDWEST DIRECTOR 57 FORD INTERNATIONAL
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oldcarmark (11/16/2010) Autozone online shows price as $38.00 +$15.00 core.Napa much higher for exact same item from same supplier.Cardone #30-2808.I bought mine here in Canada and it was $100.00 with core.Who else has found a good price on these and where?Bought mine from Rockauto (Cardone #302808) for $80 including $30 core. Shipping to the UK wasn't too pricey either if I remember, but didn't go for the core refund. Richard
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