This is just a "blown" head gasket, right?

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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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Rick, on the first pump I checked the pressure relief.  It was free. I buffed it with some buffing compound on a cloth wheel to help make sure it wouldnt hang up.  I will check the second pump.  One definite difference between the first pump and the last was the tension on the relief spring.  It was easy to notice the higher tension of the gear pump spring when compared to the gerorotor.  I was surprised enough that I got a spring from a 4th gear pump and put into the gerorotor and didnt notice any difference in feel when installing threaded plug.

Edit:  I looked at the pressure relief of the second pump installed.  It seemed fine.  Spring was in proper location of the plunger relief.  This same pump had only 2-3K on it and worked well before putting into plastic sealed bag. 

It seems to me that the third pump had a fair amount of wear which didnt allow it to overwhelm the tight tolerances of the engine.  I had tried it in the engine in my truck after the rebuild.  It didnt produce the pressures wanted.  Perhaps this experience gives an additional answer to a previous post of mine regarding bearing tolerances. 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Mike, glad you found a workable oil pump.



Have you had a look at the pressure relief valve in the other ones?




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I am happy to report the high oil pressure is no more.  Before shaving gears as suggested by Ted, there were two more things I wanted to do.  First was to change the oil to 0/30 synthetic as suggested by Rick.  Did that with almost no change.  At an oil temp of 185, 500 rpm pressure dropped only to 58, and still 80 plus at higher rpms.  With the synthetic still in the engine, a third oil pump was installed.  This time a cleaned, used gerorotor with new O'ring.  At oil temp of 185, 500 rpm pressure was 37.  2000 rpm pressure 50, and wanted to go higher but didnt take the engine any further.  So success on one front.  Too bad I cant get number 1 cylinder to stop leaking coolant.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

You might double check that the spring fits inside the oil relief valve.  If the cavity in the relief valve is too small in diameter for the spring, oil pressure will be higher than normal only when cold.  When hot, it should come back down somewhat.

 

Talking about oil temperature is going in the right direction.  Takes a while for the oil temperature to match the water temperature so that’s a consideration.  Whatever time it takes for the water temperature to get to ‘hot’, then you can easily double or triple this for the oil temperature doing the same.

 

In the end and everything else checking out, blueprinting the oil pump may help.  Putting the gear bottoms on a belt sander and removing enough material to get a minimum of 0.003” end play to the oil pump cover may help to lower your pressure.  A micrometer measurement of the gears before doing any cutting on them speeds this operation up as you’ll not constantly be having to put the gears back in the housing to remeasure.  Those gears are quite hard and the material on them is not easily removed.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Rick, the water temp was 180 plus before the runnup to 5K today.  And you are right, it takes a long time to get up to that temp even without a radiator fan in place.  Didnt check the oil pickup tube this time with the IR.  The engine was rebuilt 10 or more years ago, and then very few, like 10K miles, put onto it in a '64 F250 which I bought about this time last year.  So it is broken in.  I'll give the 0/30 synthetic a try.

A credit is due to Nick Brann.  He said Prestolite spark plugs had a poor reputation.  Today I noticed one of the new Prestolites installed in the engine firing between the insulator and the outer hex.   

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Mike,



I'm not so sure you need to worry about the engine doing 85psi at 5000 RPM.



First of all, it wasn't thoroughly warmed up was it? I don't mean coolant temp.



I mean OIL TEMP...... the oil temp WASN'T really fully at operating temp was it (and if you think it was did you measure it?)





The 57 Ford I had as a teenager in the 70's used to "peg" the (aftermarket) oil pressure gage I added at 80 PSI when cold on straight 30 wt. It didn't come down for quite some time after driving it.







I think you're fine using 5W30. It's still a 30wt oil when at operating temp. (although when you're broke-in, I would use a synthetic 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 etc)





I would suggest getting the engine (AND OIL) FULLY up to operating temp and note the temp/pressure before worrying about it too much.



The only way you're going to get it up to temp is to drive the engine in a vehicle. I don't think running it on a stand will do it very well.....and it will take a LONG time unless the engine is loaded.




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I've been working on this engine oil pressure off and on for  a month now.  Still have too high oil pressure.  Cold or Hot idle is 60-65.  5000 rpm is 85 psi.  Two different oil pumps have been installed.  The first one is new.  Checked the free movement of bypass plunger, which was good, but buffed the plunger on a cloth wheel to make sure.  No change doing that or with the install of a good used oil pump.  Two different mech. oil pressure gauges have been used (come to think of it 3 gauges have been used) with same result.  One at a time I removed three of the oil galley plugs and the oil filter, and primed the pump.  Couldnt get the 4th plug out.  All the ports blew out clean copious oil.   Oil gets to the rockers, with DS being faster than PS.  Changed the oil filter.

I checked the bearing clearances about a year ago with Plastigauge.  Most were .0015 and some were .002.  There was zero wear ring at top of cylinders.  So with the block seeming to be good, new rebuilt heads were installed and other accessories.  The oil being used is 5/30.

Are there any suggestions?  Maybe both of the pumps tried were high output versions?    

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Frank we have those mud wasps here too, nothings safe!!

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

They must be universal.  Anything with a hole can be a victim, including distributor caps!

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.