TED

I AM USING 10/40

WOULD I NEED A CAM BEARING CHANGE, IF SO CAN THIS BE DONE WITH OUT STRIPPING DOWN THE ENGINE.

STEVE.

Steve.  Rod and main bearings can be changed out without pulling the engine.  Cam bearings is another story though as that will require a complete engine tear down.  And cam bearings may ultimately be the issue around the lack of topend oil.  Until the oil pressure is restored to a normal number, it’s going to be difficult to ascertain what the cam bearing situation is without a tear down.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

TED

WHERE CAN I FIND OUT HOW TO TAKE THE ENGINE APART ( IN WHAT ORDER) CAN THINGS BE DONE.

STEVE.

Steve.  Eichmans Y-Block manual is probably as good a reference there is for what you wanting to do but you’ll want to go through the rebuild section thoroughly at least a couple of times before tearing into your engine.  When it comes to the timing chain installation and aligning the dots and pins though, disregard what is listed in that particular manual as the picture is wrong.

 

If you’ve never worked on an engine’s internals before, I’ll suggest getting a friend that has to walk you through it and look over your shoulder as you do it.  The methodology for working on the engine while it’s in the chassis versus having the engine out and on a stand is different.  Torque values are going to be important going back together also.

 

There is simply a books worth of details on rebuilding an engine but specific questions can be asked and answered here on the forum.  Reading some manuals beforehand can help to prepare you for what’s coming though.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

what will i need to replace???????  how much would this roughly cost??????

where would be the best place to buy parts????????

                 steve.

Steve, question is bit like,how long is a piece of string?, as Ted suggests, get a friend who knows something about engines to help. i can only suggest without good supervision this engine can cost twice as much as normal to o.haul and cause a lot of anguish. Do your homework, get experienced help to run you through the proper method to do this engine. Not trying to discourage you, just trying to get you going in right direction, others will help but you need to start educating yourself first. good luck. bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Steve.  A tear down of the engine will give a better idea of what’s going to need replacement.  If the crankshaft does not show excessive or abnormal wear, then the best case scenario is a set of rod and main bearings that are appropriate for whatever sizing the crankshaft is currently at along with another oil pan gasket.  Worst case scenario is worn crankshaft which requires a complete teardown where the crankshaft must be removed so it can be ground undersize.  This will require bearings that are a fit for the remachined crankshaft.  At this point you may also find that there is sufficient wear in the cylinder bores to mandate reboring the cylinders oversize thus requiring new pistons and rings and a full set of gaskets.  New cam bearings are going to be a prerequisite once the block is removed from the chassis.  And one thing leads to another once the engine is torn down.  Timing chain, camshaft, lifters, and other miscellaneous parts become subject to replacement.  Can end up being on the expensive side depending upon just how far you want to go.

 

Because of all the unknowns right now, pricing varies considerably depending upon what’s required and where the parts are purchased.  Although Y rebuild parts can be bought at most machine shops or major parts distributors here in the U.S., a couple of Y-Block specific suppliers to start with would include Schumanns Sales and Service and John Mummert.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

hi all

went out today and put another new oil pressure gauge in and guess what , when i started up it went straight to 50lbs when cold,  and dropped to about 35lbs when warm.

this is when warm

      STEVE.

Steve,

Last year I bought a non-running 1958 F600 with a 292. When I got it home I pulled the rocker covers and found that 5 of the 8 pushrods on the passenger side had fallen out of place and were laying in the lifter valley, bent and broken. I pulled the rocker shaft off and found it to be severely galled due to a lack of oil. I got some good used rockers and pushrods and reassembled them. I removed the distributor and turned the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill. I was getting oil to the drivers side rockers but none to the passenger side. I cleaned the oil passageway through the head and there was still no oil. I found a NOS external oiler kit and put it on. Now I had oil to all of the rockers.

But I still had another problem- when warm and idling the oil pressure dropped to 0 psi. I pulled the pan and plastigaged the main bearings. There was about .007" clearance- about twice as much as it should be. Nobody makes undersized main bearings except .010, .020, etc for reground cranks. They used to be available in .002, .003, etc. I got online and found a NOS set of .002 undersize at a parts store in Puerto Rico. I installed them and now with 20w-50 oil I have 50 psi cold and 25 psi hot at idle. I have oil to the rocker arms. I have a running engine. Yes, it has been fixed with band-aids but it runs.

hi all

MY MECHANIC HAS NOT WORKED ON Y BLOCKS BEFORE AND CANT UNDERSTAND THAT I HAVE 50PSI OIL PRESSURE BUT NO OIL TO THE ROCKERS.

WHY CANT THE OIL PRESSURE, PUMP THE OIL THROUGH THE OIL PASSAGE WAYS???????? IF THESE ARE NO BLOCKED.

                            STEVE.