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brandon672288
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 16,
Visits: 4.7K
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Wow...that is awesome. I really believe that everything is on this site, if you know what you are looking for. The Sanderson headers look like they are right for me. $285 or $435 is the only decision to make now. The 435 is coated...they talk it up pretty good on their site. Do any of you have any experiences with these? Is the coating worth $150? http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-FTB1-Ford-Y-Block-Header-Set-for-1948-64-Ford-Pickups.html
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Don Woodruff
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
Posts: 190,
Visits: 1.6K
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It would be best to go to the post by Ted on the exausting exaust test in this section. lots of good info. http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic55379-3-1.aspx
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brandon672288
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 16,
Visits: 4.7K
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Also, I am planning on doing something with my exhaust this week. John Mummert's exhaust manifold or headers? The headers that I looked at said no to the 3 speed transmission. Are there headers that I can use or should I just go with Mummerts exhaust for the F100? It seems like they will both be about the same price...most of the headers are cheaper.
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brandon672288
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 16,
Visits: 4.7K
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Thanks so much. I will try that today. You guys are a lot of help. I also bought a shop manual for the 1960 F100. I hope that it will get here soon. I found one on Dennis Carpenters site.
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gekko13
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 128,
Visits: 2.6K
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Brandon, the choke senses the engine temperature by drawing warm air through the choke thermostat housing. Typically, a metal tube connects the choke to a cavity in the exhaust manifold and heated air from the hot manifold warms the thermostatic spring inside the choke housing (the black phenolic "can" on the side of the carb.). If the tube is missing, a suitable replacement can be fashioned with copper tubing from the hardware store. One end of the tube connects to the choke housing with a compression nut and ferrule and the other end can either be shoved into the stock hole or just clamp a section of the tubing to the manifold. The thermostat housing is adjustable by loosening the 3 screws which hold it and then dialing it left or right like a radio knob. There are little hash marks and a pointer to reference right on the rim of the thermostat housing. Do a little search on the net for pictures of all this and it'll make more sense to you. You should also be collecting printed manuals and references. You're going to need them sooner or later. This is very basic stuff which you can easily do and you'll have the satisfaction of doing yourself. Good luck.
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Don Woodruff
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
Posts: 190,
Visits: 1.6K
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Based on my experience with a stock 57 Tbird 312 Y blocks like more carb. If you can find a 57 4bbl manifold put a 600cfm 4 bbl on it. I replaced the stock 4 bbl on my bird (s/od) with a 600 cfm off my 390/375 with no changes. It promptly went 92+ mph in the quarter through the stock exaust. Driveability was excellent. On my present 57 Bird (auto) I have a 600 cfm carb and it runs very well with no driveability issues. Sure, with more mods the effect of added carburetion would be greater, but in stock form in my opinion and past experience, a stock Y is noticeably short changed from the factory in terms of carb capacity.
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brandon672288
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 16,
Visits: 4.7K
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The automatic choke isn't functional. The carb is off of something else. Doesn't an automatic choke work off the exhaust manifold somehow? Either way, it's not hooked up nor do I have any idea how it should b hooked up.
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gekko13
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 128,
Visits: 2.6K
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If the choke is functional, why not just adjust it? The cost is 0 and takes approx. 1 minute. The stock warm air type choke system is simple, effective and did I mention, FREE? LOL Save your money for parts that actually make your engine better. JMO
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46yblock
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 7.8K
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The automatic choke can be changed easily to a manual choke, with the use of a different black cap. They are or were available in the auto stores as a Universal Manual Choke conversion. Price 10-15 dollars. Visually they arent very neat, but are functional and could be an answer for a carb that will be replaced in near future. New cable is included.
Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

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brandon672288
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 16,
Visits: 4.7K
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Thanks guys for the info. I will try to find a similar carb then. The one that I have now has an automatic choke on it. It's so cold natured that I would like a manual choke. The cable in my dash is stuck so I will buy another cable, then find a carb just like the one that came on it. I have a bad exhaust leak so I was planning on getting some new exhaust manifolds and possibly straight pipe with no muffler. I was looking at the Mummerts exhaust manifold. Figure I will go with those or put on some headers...just not sure which one yet.
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