I did a disc conversion on the front and rear, went with MPB (Master Power Brakes). She stops great, in a straight line etc. BUT, it feels more like manual discs than power discs. I think it's mainly because there is soooo much travel now in the brake pedal, after the conversion. My foot has to be 70-80% to the floor before the brakes really "engage." Has anyone else had this problem, and how did they relieve this?



Thanks,

William

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

William,

I didn't use a a MPB conversion but recent did a conversion using a master/booster from Old Irish Dave (ebay) (MBM parts) and Hoppers Stoppers calipers and disks (PRB & DBA parts).

What I noticed was that although I did a lot of bleeding I ended up with a pedal like yours. The answer was in the adjustment of the actuation rod to the booster/master. An adjustment of the clevis of only a few turns changes the pedal play by about 1/2".  You only need about 1/4" to 1/2" play before you feel resistance of the master then the resistance once the pads make contact with the disks. You need play so that the valve in the booster is open when the brakes are not in use and so that the brakes aren't always on.

Your chasing yourself a bit as you need the brakes bleed to adjust your free play. You can't properly bleed your brakes until you adjust your freeplay. I cycled between the two (bleed, adjust bleed, adjust) a few times to get it right.  

Cheers

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Try to get an adjustable rod into the master cylinder and take out the free play from when you push down on the brake pedal and when the rod contacts the piston in the master cylinder. Thats what I had to do with non power setup from Master Power Brake. Pete

Okay, where did you buy the adjustable rod?

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

There is a small amount of adjustment on the rod from the booster into the master cylinder.Be sure you understand the adjustment of that as explained in the information supplied with the master.The real adjustment is in the rod to the pedal.You should have a small amount of free play-enough that the booster returns to full non applied postion.I  have a feeling you have the rod too long and the booster is not returning all the way.One thing I did on my 56 was redrill the hole in the pedal so it lines up with the way the rod meets it-about 1-2 inchs lower than the original hole.You might have tried to bench bleed the master before installing.Saves a lot of agravation when bleeding the whole system. 

I just re-read Petes post further up.I you note he is working with a non-power setup.You already have an adjustable pushrod as part of the kit only it goes from pedal to booster.The little "pin" that comes out of the booster and contacts the insert in the master cylinder is usually pretty close in length to where it should be.It allows the piston in the master to return to full released.If you need to adjust it, it should only be a little.It is very important that the booster/master can return to fully released position or the brakes will drag or the booster won't work properly which is the problem you are having now.There shoulod be a small amount of freeplay between the pushrod from the pedal and when it contacts the internal piston in the booster.Again I think yours is adjusted too long which means the booster is not returning to full release position.I did the same with mine initially.