Jim, I just went back out to the shop, I promised you a reply. The bracket kit does not use the dipstick bolt hole. I did bend the tube upward to clear the alternator. It was a pretty good kit,I did have to alter a shim to get the fan belt true. I thought the alternator and compressor were reasonable.





thanks, Mark

Clocking:
It is really selecting the location of the mounting holes in the device to match up with whatever kind of bracket you are using.  The other consideration is to look at the electrical connections so the wiring faces in the best routing position for neatness and safety. 

By having a top hole (12 o'clock) and another one at either the 4 o'clock or 8 o'clock position should give you the flexibility to find a good orientation to mount the device.  I don't think there is a right side up so that may give you more options if you need to mount it "upside down".

HTH

Jim
Norfolk, VA

"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)

"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)

Ok, so "clocking" appears to be the orientation of the BAT terminal relative to the upper attachment bolt hole. I've seen this as an option on other alternators as well. How does one choose the correct clocking?

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

Wow, a lot of options and a lot to consider. Thanks for all the input. I bought a generator rebuild kit, and I'm going to stay original for the moment. After I can consider more, I'll probably make the change to an alternator. Plus, I want a working generator on the shelf so it can go back to original.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

Hi, I did an alternator conversion on my 63 Falcon and am planning on doing the same on my Galaxie.I used an alternator and voltage regulator for a '65 Mustang, and used this diagram. After 2years, all is still working fine. Gen light functions as well. Just my humble input.

My experience here in Oz is that the GM alternators we get new here are unreliable to say the least. I have had brand new one wire and three wire faulty from new.

The best option is the Bosch alternator fitted to late 70's to mid 90's fords and Holden's. You can pick the up anywhere cheap and they just keep working.They are much better quality than the GM deco alternator.

I know what I will always use.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

My experience only, I'm sure it's not all the alternatives.



Most early available GM alts. are 3 wire, but if you short the second and third terminals, they become 1 wire. The threaded stud is the output, and the "spades" that accept the plug are the wires that sense voltage output, and sent it back to the internal regulator. I set my first one up with the jumper, and even with the larger wire for a 6 bolt system (now 12v), there was noticeable voltage drop at the battery. On my 'bird, that was only 5 or 6 feet of wire. When I connected the other two wires back to (I think) the battery and the light, the voltage at the battery went up to 14.7 or so. That's how I've wired them ever since, and no problems. These style GM Alternators seem to be the most available when your stuck, but I've had two fail, both the fancy chrome ones that don't do so good a job of dissipating heat. Buy the cast aluminum, and put the fan on.



I don't remember the connections for sure, but the gen light in the 'bird works as it should. The only serious failure, which was heat, resulted in charging at 17+ volts, which boiled the battery real quick. Now I've got a voltmeter, too. But this was a very tight, high heat installation, in a car that ran real hot at times, and the alt. was buried under the blower.



Most of the major wiring harness sites will give the correct wiring diagram, which I would trust more than my memory.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Kevin,
Thanks for the tips. They are very helpful.

This site appears to be a good resource.

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/alternators/products/alt-7778

New small case 3G 160 Amp for $125 clocked for however you need.

They also have starters, relays and other wiring stuff.

Has anyone used their products?

Jim
Norfolk, VA

"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)

"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)

Someone made a point that if you are out of town, or on a road trip, and the one wire alternator takes a dive you are probably screwed. So maybe a 3 wire that is in stock at the auto parts store is the way to go. I went with the chevy alternator because the bracket kit for my ac called for it, forgive me for I have sinned.





thanks, Mark

Mine will be easy as I don't even have a wiring loom in the car yet (it's a rebuild from scratch)

Just rebuilt the 272 and it's still on the stand and I finished rebuilding the fordomatic at the weekend and it's sitting on the garage floor behind the motor.

Rear end of the car is assembled so I just have to start installing the driveline and then the front end of the body.

The suspension is all done.

Having fun with it but my missus is giving me grief for ignoring all the things around the house that I promised I would do if I could just buy a Customline.

Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod