So my '58 292 f100 had been starting but doing so with a bit of attitude. It would turn over fine but would take a while to actually start and I was worried that with the winter coming it would only get worse and I would end up burning out a starter. So I took it into the garage and tuned the carb and played with the timing a little figuring that would fix it. Well I got it running really nice, got rid of a little hesitation I was experience off stops and it just ran and sounded great. That was yesterday. This morning I go to start it and it just does not want to start, it sound like it is having a rough time kicking over, almost like it is trying to fire a little early. It finally did start but I definitely dont want to have that be the way it starts every morning. I will say that once it was warmed up it ran like a dream again but I did stop it and when I tried to restart it at work this morning it still was a pita but was a little quicker to start. Any help or suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Cbass

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

You don't really make clear if it is slow to crank or cranks fine but just doesn't start. If it is cranking slow and you just had the starter redone I would check all battery connections for clean connections and tightness. Also check the condition of the battery. If it cranks fine but does not start, at what air temp? If cold, check your choke setting. Too rich could cause flooding that would not be a problem after warm up. If too lean pumping the accelerator while cranking will help. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Thanks Mike, before I tuned it it would crank fast before finally starting and after tuning it cranks slower and has a hard feel to it before starting. As far as the temp, it is in the 40's hear right now but has been doing it regardless of the temp. It also does it (now) regardless if the engine is warm or not. As far as the choke goes, I have never really messed with this. I usually just pull it all the way out until it starts and then slowly lower it to keep it just high enough to make sure it doesnt stall out. Let me know what you guys think, is it the timing or maybe something as easy as the choke?

Cbass

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

It seems like you now have too much initial advance from the distributor. Why not try to loosen the distributor clamp down bolt and turn the distributor a LITTLE in the retard direction.

This is only a band air to trouble-shoot what your real problem is. Take a compression check first because if too low not much can be done. If the compression, ignition SPARK and fuel are all good then work on the ignition advance setting. Pete

Check all CABLE connections, add a direct ground cable from the starter to the frame.

I'm with Pete. You have the ignition too far advanced at idle. These engines will run fine with lots of advance but will be a PITA if you have too much on trying to start. Retard the ignition a little and see how you go.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Thanks guys and that does make sense except that it would just turn over and over before I over advanced the timing. I posted this on the Ford Truck site and they seam to agree with you guys but also feel that I may have a fuel pump issue and that is why it would turn over until it built pressure and then start. I know have to figure out how to test this theory.

Thanks again.

Cbass

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

Cbass,

It's reasonably typical that a lot of older machines see a drop in ignition voltage during startup. This can be for a number of reasons one is age and a buildup of corrosion on the electrical connections on the path to the coil the other is bad design.

If you have a multimeter and an assistant check the battery voltage this should be above 12v and closer to 14v. then check your voltage at the coil. It should be the same or probably slightly less.  Have your assistant crank your engine while you check the voltage at the coil. if there is a significant drop you will need to get more voltage to the coil.

A common fix is to run a lead directly from your battery, using the signal wire from your ignition to trigger a relay. this way you will have full voltage at the coil. If you want you can try a temporary wire from your battery to the coil to see if this cures the problem.

Good luck with it.

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

I doubt it's the fuel pump. If it will run and idle fine once started, then the pump is very likely functioning correctly. If the fuel drains or boils out of the float bowl in between starts, it can take quite a few revolutions for the pump to fill the bowl before it will run. So I'd make sure fuel is not getting out of the bowl. Once that is confirmed, devise a safe way to supply fuel to the carburetor using a gravity feed or get a remote fuel supply which is actually designed for this. This will eliminate the pump from the equation. If the situation still exists, then it's very likely not the pump.



Do you know where your initial timing is?


Lawrenceville, GA

I agree with the others who state that the fuel pump is probably not the problem.  Here lately, I have seen a rash of "mysterious" problems popping up due to component failures such condensors, coils and the like.  These parts are purchased new, in name brand packaging and turn out to be crap in a matter of days or less.  Check your basic pieces.  They may be defective when installed.  (Some) manufacturers are producing parts to fit a price point and if they actually perform, that's just coincidental, IMO.  It's a sorry state of affairs but I have seen it first hand.