I had never heard of it slipping like that. I will have to check that out. It does not really act like it is that far out a little extra vibration. But that would make some sense.



As much as I was looking forward to getting the new cam, I would also prefer the no expense adjustment route.



Thanks I was about ready to start ordering parts, now I can at least try to adjust the damper first.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

Riz: Check your crank pulley. The balancer may be so dried up it's slipping. Due to age this problem shows up fairly often.

Paul

Pete,

Thanks, actually had a little time to play with it. First the good news: The PCV is a hard line so I disconnected and blocked and everything worked fine. Examined the line and found a small worn hole that was covered by the hose bracket --vacuum problem solved.



Took her out and throttle tip in was better no hesitation and better hp. Took it back and figured I would look at the timing and dial it in: timing is skipping every little bit so I figure I have a worn tooth or chain stretches. So looks like I get to upgrade timing set and might as well do a new Mummert 265* performance cam while I have the cover off. Nothing like a needed repair to justify an upgrade.



Aah well.


Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

First, nice looking truck. If you think that the PCV is causing a vacuum leak why not take a pair of vce-grips and close the hose to the PCV and see if it makes any difference. Cheap and easy. Pete

The carbs may be leaking down some but checking the plugs if anything they are on the lean side and slightly more gray but look ok. I do hold it to the floor when starting when hot it turns over fine but takes a few to catch. it acts like it is flooded but no other symptoms, no blast of smoke at start up or odor. I have had a line camera through the carb and no sign of fuel. I am running 3.5 lb on the fuel line to the carb. There is a little weeping from the bases but not mich at all. It has an adjustable dial regulator, but I have a pressure gage in the primary banjo. It acts like the ignition is too advanced or a vacuum leak when hot but I sure cannot find it.





One of the other forums had some info on sizing down the PCV. Which would make sense acting different hot than cold if there was too much case pressure vs manifold.



I am out of ideas and soliciting anything to try and come up with a plan before I start chasing every gremlin in the garage.



I do appreciate all of the assistance.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

Riz, how much fuel pressure are you seeing at the carburetor ?  Those old 94's and Strombergs didn't like much pressure.  They weren't called "leakers" for nothing.

If it starts well cold but is difficult to start when hot that suggests that you are flooding the engine or it is running too rich. When you say that the engine is hard to start, is it cranking fine but won't fire up. If you hold the throttle flat when cranking does it start easier.

An engine that fires up easy when cold without choke certainly suggests that it is on the rich side and this engine may then be difficult to start when hot.

Check all your float levels and needles and seats on the inlets.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Ok I might as well jump in here as I am in the same boat but a little different. I am running 3x2 with holley 94s on a 292 with g heads. I have the initial timing set at 10* it has a Mallory elec ignition set to stock 24* total. The truck starts ok when absolutely cold but takes a few minutes to warm up and idle with the choke no big deal. The issue is that after running for a time and then sitting for more than a few minutes is a bear to start. I thought thought the carbs were leaking so took them and got them flow tested they are ok. I put 1/4 phenolic spacers on but think that they are still leaking down.

It still acts like there is a vac leak and it is about making me nuts. The manifold heat riser dumps right below the primary carb. I was thinking of cutting some aluminum and fabricating a restrictor plate for the heat risers. Or do you think retarding the timing a few degrees would help?since it starts well cold I am guessing it is more a heat soak problem then timing.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

It is the holley 2 barrel, the float level is correct but I will have to check the other two things and will read the other post you suggested. I will have to see if I can find a way to check on the butterflies being to far open. In the mean time thanks again.

Cbass

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

You don't mention what carb you have on your car but if a Holley, it could be one of three things. First the float level is too low, second the accelerator pump clearance is wrong - there should be zero when the throttle closed and about .015" when full throttle and third you have the primary butterflies open too far exposing the transfer slot.

Thre is another post with a member having problems getting his 56 to idle correctly that may be relevant to you.

If an Autolite check your float level.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!