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Carburetor Adaptor plate 239 OHV

Posted By F-100CustomCabtbc 13 Years Ago
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F-100CustomCabtbc
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Ted (6/9/2012)
[quote]By the book, the measurement for reinstalling the distributor gear on the shaft is 4.991”-4.996”.  That measurement is from the bottom face of the gear to the bottom face of the distributor mounting pad...

Thank You Very Much!!Wink

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block

Ted
Posted 13 Years Ago
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F-100CustomCabtbc (6/8/2012)
.....Is it really crucial on hitting a specific number or will it be okay just being in the ball park?  Because otherwise I think I might go for the 1.00" dimension.
By the book, the measurement for reinstalling the distributor gear on the shaft is 4.991”-4.996”.  That measurement is from the bottom face of the gear to the bottom face of the distributor mounting pad.  The bottom face of the distributor mounting pad would be the part of the distributor that determines exactly where the distributor resides in the block.  If the gear sets too low on the shaft, then the distributor will seat too heavily in the block and abnormal wear in the block will take place as well as the chance of the gear roll pin shearing.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


F-100CustomCabtbc
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Ok I have a challenge for you guys I got the new oil pump and the gears on the distributor swapped out.  But the question that I have is about how far up on the distributor shaft I should put the gear.

Because the old holes don't line up (239 gear on the 272 dist.).  So I have to drill a new hole through both but I want to make sure I have the gear is in the right spot before I drill the hole.  I also noticed that the hole on the 239 gear was closer to the gear teeth than the one on the 272 dist.  Which when attempting to line up the holes the 239 gear was further up the shaft than what it was on the 239 dist. (I measured that it was 1.043" from the end of the shaft when the holes are lined up.  I used a height gauge and caliper and such and figured that the 239 gear was about 1.0015" from the end of the 239 distributor.  And the 272 gear was about .966 from the end of the shaft.  I was maybe going to double check that dimension but instead from the base of the distributor where it seats on the outside of the engine block.  I just wanted to get someone elses take on this matter.

Is it really crucial on hitting a specific number or will it be okay just being in the ball park?  Because otherwise I think I might go for the 1.00" dimension.

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block

F-100CustomCabtbc
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JoeBob (4/24/2012)
There is a retainer clip on the shaft to prevent it from coming out with the distributer. You will have to pull the pump to get the shaft out the bottom. If your shaft is slotted at the top it is slotted at the bottom also.

That is what I figured so I will have to order a new pump.

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block

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F-100CustomCabtbc (4/24/2012)


But, I can't get the shaft out from the top end of the motor, guessing that there is a shoulder somewhere. I didn't pull the pump off yet. I thought I would ask if anyone new what the other end of the 239 v8's oil pump shaft was (end in the pump). I am guessing it is slotted like the top.




There is a retainer clip on the shaft to prevent it from coming out with the distributer. You will have to pull the pump to get the shaft out the bottom. If your shaft is slotted at the top it is slotted at the bottom also.





F-100CustomCabtbc
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Hi guys I have been busy with lot's of other things lately.  Sending out chrome parts, getting seat recovered, ect...

But I did clean up my other dist. a couple of weeks ago.  And tonight I was going to check what the other end of the oil pump shaft looked like (the end that goes in the pump).  I know the dist. end is slotted obviously.  But I was wondering about the other end to see if I have to buy a new pump if I am going to switch out the dist. gears.  But,  I can't get the shaft out from the top end of the motor, guessing that there is a shoulder somewhere.  I didn't pull the pump off yet.  I thought I would ask if anyone new what the other end of the 239 v8's oil pump shaft was (end in the pump).  I am guessing it is slotted like the top.

So the dist. I want to put in this 239 is from a 272 with a straight hex shaft.

I figure yea it will cost me another $100+ for another pump but I could save the money on rebuilding another carb, new air cleaner, dist cap, rotor, someone to make new carb. linkages, ect... Anyways by doing this I get the carb I want which is already linkaged and has an air cleaner.

Any help is appreciated!!

ThanksWink

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block

Hoosier Hurricane
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The tops should be interchangeable, so you can use your carb with the top from your Dad's carb to match the air filter.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/avatars/johnf.jpg
F-100CustomCabtbc
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Here are a couple of pictures:

My carb. is the left one in all of the pictures the other one is my dads I'm sure he would even let me have both the carb and cleaner to put on my truck.  My carb would be easier to rebuild the other one is froze up I can't get the throttle to open.  And I was wondering do I need the sediment bulb on my carb like the one on my dads?  Because I don't have one.  Being I am missing so many pieces to this carb. plus other issues is only pushing me now to do the distributor gear swap and put my 2bbl Holley on this 239.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block

F-100CustomCabtbc
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Ok so this last weekend I was sorting through and organizing my parts.  I got to looking at the carburetor and air cleaner and well I currently don't have an air cleaner that will fit the 2bbl bottle neck carb that originally goes with the 239.  Now my dad did point me to one of his old carburetors and air cleaners that he had for his '55 or '56.  The carb. looks to be the same carb. his has a different neck on it.  Mine is straight where his has a flare on it.  His originally had the oil bath air cleaner.  I could rebuild that carb and redo that cleaner but I was wondering about the filter inside the oil bath cleaner.  Can you replace it and how?  The only thing is I do think the oil bath cleaner is cool and everything but I don't know how much I really want it on my truck though.  I have a couple styles of air cleaners but none of them work with my original 239 carb.

I will get pictures up as soon as I can.

But I am begining to think if even if the air cleaner my be a problem I might go through the trouble of switching the distributor gear and put my other intake on.  Because if by doing that will make linking throttle, air cleaner, carb choice, ect easier to accomplish I might actually go through with that option.  Because to be honest it wouldn't be to hard of a change.  I will have to repaint my other intake the yellow like my motor (right now it is Ford Blue).  That is just a minor set back though.

Any suggestions?

Thank you very much everyone!Wink 

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block

F-100CustomCabtbc
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (1/29/2012)
All the fuel pump eccentrics for Y blocks are the same.  The distributor gear needs to be the original to the engine to match the gear on the cam.  If you are taking out a 13 tooth distributor, the 13 tooth gear needs to go on the distributor you are going to use.  The ratio between the cam and distributor gear is 1:1.

Ok they helps and makes more sense.  I guess I will assume that the fuel pump will be fine.  When I get to trying to start it for the first time I guess we will find out right.  I might even check it out before my truck is painted and put together to make sure.

Blaine SE MN

1958 Ford F-100 Custom Cab Short Box Styleside

239 cid V8 Y Block



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