When I disassembled my engine I went to great lengths to keep the lifters in order so they went back on the same lobes on reassembly. Things looked prety good and I was going to re use the cam and lifters. Made a really stupid move today and the lifters got scrambled. Took careful look at everything again after scrambling the liftersand while there is no real obvious serious problems, there are a few lifters with slight imperfections that concern me now that the lifters will not be going back on the same lobes. I could put it together and it may work fine, but if it doesn't, replacing the cam after the fact will be a whole lot of work and another gasket set. I have prety much talked myself into biting the bullet and ordering a new cam and lifters from Mummert. Opinions?? By the way if anyone heard loud noises from the direction of Southern Illinois, it was me cursing.

I've heard of guys having the lifters re-surfaced. Can you send the cam and lifters to a shop?

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Lifters  can be resurfaced. Have heard mixed results with them.

From your previous posts, my recollection is that you like the cam you've got. My recollection, too, is that you haven't got that much mileage on this camshaft although you've run it since (?) the late 60s.



Yes, lifters and lobes 'wear-in' together. Assuming that all of the used cam lobes look good, consider buying a new set of lifters to install with the used cam. Because the bottom of each lifter is slightly crowned (convex), there will be a line of contact of the new lifter against the used cam lobe as the cam lobe rotates during operation. Because of the slight taper across the surface of each cam lobe when the cam was originally ground, the lifters rotate as the engine runs. Sooo... everything will again 'wear-in' together without a problem.



Tim McMaster has previously indicated no problem with having lifters resurfaced. What I can't remember is who he recommended. 46Y-Block has also indicated that he has gone the lifter resurfacing route as well. The Forum search function will yield the suggested resurfacing source for you, I'm sure. Like everything else, WHO does the job can be as important as having it done.



I'd carefully check your valve springs for vertical straightness, and also check them for uniform valve open height and valve closed height pressure value. -Erase that, you're using new aluminum head assemblies from JM.



Best Wishes!

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Have to check on source for resurfacing. There is a camshaft regrinding place in my area that may do it. Problem with buying new lifters is that if I spend that much I may as well go with new cam. Like the old cam and looking at new ones in the same general specification range. I could put it back together and it could be fine. Problem is if it goes south, changing the cam in the car is something that I am not looking foreward to. Would sooner do it right once than have to do it twice. Will have mechanic friend look at it and see what he thinks.

SlumLord, I have used these guys numerous times with great results... Oregon Cam Grinders http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/. If they can handle a train they should be able to help ya!! http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/locomotive.html

I believe others on here have used them also.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

I've heard results both ways. If yours are the ones that go bad from a regrind which can and does happen you lose ALOTTTTT!!!!!!!!! And I mean ALOT!!! Pulling an engine for a cam and lifter swap is no walk in the park on a yblock and other parts can be damaged as well. This could be the time to upgrade the cam alittle if you want too, and with the NEW lifters you get alot more insurence the engine will not experience failure. The lifters are not harden all the way thru, just a thin shell and if you go thru it or it's just to thin  after a regrid then goodby it is. Just my thoughts but the call is yours.

-Gary Burnette-

I would agree with the rest for the couple hundred you would spend on a new cam and lifters would be pretty cheap insurance. Pay once...cry once.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

I have pretty much talked myself into going with a new cam and lifters just to be safe, and also to go to a little hotter cam and pick up some more horsepower. Ted Eaton gave me a couple of recommendations. The Isky I am considering he has a dyno test on a 318 Cube Y with right at 429 HP on a street engine on pump gas with out of the box Mummert heads. Those are numbers I would about die to get. I know I have seen a report on this engine but I can't seem to locate it. Y Block magazine or here? Hate it when I forget where somewhere is. Anybody remember where the article is?

Here’s the link to the 318 Y that is being referenced.  An indepth article on this engine will be in the next issue of Y-Block Magazine.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic68095-4-1.aspx 

 

I’ll add that one of the problems that stems from mixing up the used lifters on a camshaft are the differing sides in which the rakes (angles) are ground on the lobes.  It’s important that the lifters rotate in the same direction that they are broken in on.  Taking a lifter that rotated one direction and then switching it to lobe with an opposite facing rake then forces the lifter to rotate in the opposite direction.  Once the lifter is burnished with a given wear pattern, running it in the opposite direction increases the chances for pronounced lifter or lobe wear.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)