Talked to Isky today and ordered the cam that Ted had recomended. It should definately be a performance upgrade from the '69 vintage Crane that I had. Cam was reasonable. Lifters not so much. Also ordered a timing chain set with several offset options so I can install the cam with the same advance that Ted used on the engine he dyno tested. Isky is supposed to ship the cam in about a week. Now if Mummert can get  the heads to me I will be ready to start assembling things. Started on the new dash pad while I am waiting for parts. Got pllenty to do to keep busy.

Don't know about Ted or Tim's take on reground lifters but here's mine. Once reground you lose some of the hardness on the face which makes the surface more susceptible to premature failure from thinning the hardened area. If they reharden the surface after resurfacing then chances seem better on having no problems. In the end what does this all cost? Is it cost effective? What's the cost difference on reground and rehardened vs new USA made or just reground taking your chances for failure vs new USA made??? 

-Gary Burnette-

Lots of engine parts I am ok with regrinding/reusing, but for lifters I have always figured if I spent the time and effort to get that deep a few bucks is worth the investment of not wiping out more expensive parts to save a few bucks. Especially as you noted the quality controls of many of the offshore parts can be suspect.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

Ted and/or Tim, What is your take on regrinding or surfacing lifters? Or anyone else that has a opinion.



I have used reground lifters in the past with know problems but now wonder if it is a practice.



With todays mix of parts coming from off shore I guess you would have to ensure the new ones came from a reputable person such as Ted or John.



Just thinking out loud. Any thoughts?

Here’s the link to the 318 Y that is being referenced.  An indepth article on this engine will be in the next issue of Y-Block Magazine.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic68095-4-1.aspx 

 

I’ll add that one of the problems that stems from mixing up the used lifters on a camshaft are the differing sides in which the rakes (angles) are ground on the lobes.  It’s important that the lifters rotate in the same direction that they are broken in on.  Taking a lifter that rotated one direction and then switching it to lobe with an opposite facing rake then forces the lifter to rotate in the opposite direction.  Once the lifter is burnished with a given wear pattern, running it in the opposite direction increases the chances for pronounced lifter or lobe wear.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have pretty much talked myself into going with a new cam and lifters just to be safe, and also to go to a little hotter cam and pick up some more horsepower. Ted Eaton gave me a couple of recommendations. The Isky I am considering he has a dyno test on a 318 Cube Y with right at 429 HP on a street engine on pump gas with out of the box Mummert heads. Those are numbers I would about die to get. I know I have seen a report on this engine but I can't seem to locate it. Y Block magazine or here? Hate it when I forget where somewhere is. Anybody remember where the article is?

I would agree with the rest for the couple hundred you would spend on a new cam and lifters would be pretty cheap insurance. Pay once...cry once.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

I've heard results both ways. If yours are the ones that go bad from a regrind which can and does happen you lose ALOTTTTT!!!!!!!!! And I mean ALOT!!! Pulling an engine for a cam and lifter swap is no walk in the park on a yblock and other parts can be damaged as well. This could be the time to upgrade the cam alittle if you want too, and with the NEW lifters you get alot more insurence the engine will not experience failure. The lifters are not harden all the way thru, just a thin shell and if you go thru it or it's just to thin  after a regrid then goodby it is. Just my thoughts but the call is yours.

-Gary Burnette-

SlumLord, I have used these guys numerous times with great results... Oregon Cam Grinders http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/. If they can handle a train they should be able to help ya!! http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/locomotive.html

I believe others on here have used them also.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Have to check on source for resurfacing. There is a camshaft regrinding place in my area that may do it. Problem with buying new lifters is that if I spend that much I may as well go with new cam. Like the old cam and looking at new ones in the same general specification range. I could put it back together and it could be fine. Problem is if it goes south, changing the cam in the car is something that I am not looking foreward to. Would sooner do it right once than have to do it twice. Will have mechanic friend look at it and see what he thinks.