When sone of these modern coils say they are capable of 40,000 or 50,000 volts - its for real. Most of the time it only takes about 10,000 V to fire a plug in a compressed chamber - but there are circumstances that can drive that up. If the volts find a way out - they will take that path again and again - and your hard work will be ruined until you replace the wire.

I hope you re-installed the heat shields under the exhaust manifolds? I've also got the Moroso "fire sleeve" material over the wire on mine in the really close hot spots.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

When you short a wire, what do you see? Smoke not electricity. The thicker wires do a better job of keeping the smoke in.



No, actually, it provides better insulation for high powered ignition.


Lawrenceville, GA

OK, what's the deal with the fat wires?

do they let more 'lectricity thru?

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

yes Daniel it does, at least to us anyway! I'm just more of a fair weather driver now a days I can always reinstall it.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

It never gets cold in Tulsa? (Heater delete)

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Yes at the time it was pretty battle scarred, all from preassembly. It looks more like this now

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

bird55 thats a real Y, battle scared valve covers, polished ports. I've run all but 4 and 7 the cross overs, couldn't get to the back like a removed block but I'm happy so far, I'll post some pics when done today.  Thanks all and guess I took Charlie's advise run them way you want em, and in my case run the the way you can. 

Ted, Redding, CA

found some old pics of my install, consider using some silicone lube to get em thru the rubber blocks, and take your time.

Just one more cool thing about the Y is the way you can tuck them under the exhaust as per the factory setup. Much better than over the valve covers.

IMHO

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I bought a set of accel 8.8 wires to get 90 degree boots at the cap. They work better on the 57/58 , the straight boots run into the pinch seam on the firewall. After drilling the rubber blocks out, I wound up buying some wire separators at advance auto, I think they were mr. gasket or something. Worked good.





thanks, Mark

Bought a kit from Jegs came with 8.5mm wires, probably a bit less flexible than 8.0 and gonna make it a little more difficult to route but right now I'm stuck with them.  Thanks for the pics really helps, was unsure on the original clamp location, and with the 8.5 wires I'll be drilling or grinding rubber, might try freezing before drilling.  No question would be less difficult with engine out, but the fenders and wells are off and that will help.  I really appreciate the help.

Ted, Redding, CA