Greenbird and all...Went 40 Ford Day in Anaheim today which was a good test for stop and go driving in 90 degree weather. (always hot near Disneyland) The 3/16" hole in the bypass seems to have definately changed the running of my Vic. A little slower to warm up (?) which I don't mind but right up to middle on the stock gauge and stays right there after 160 therm gets everything the same temp.

The 40 Ford Club in So Cal is pretty big and brings out a lot of cars each year to La Palma Park.  We had 2 55 Crowns, a 57 Farlaine 500 post, 57 post with Paxton blower, 56 and 58 2 door wagons, 3 early T-Birds, and my Vic all with Y-Blocks. A real nice 61 Sunliner with an FE and a 63 Galaxie 500 fastback with an FE. There were over 100 40's along with some other late 40's and early 50's FOMOCO's.

Talked to a lot of other 55/56 owners without cars there and all said the same thing about there is not enough of them out and about..Told them about the site and hope they join up unless they are hiding...Now I think I'll start looking for the A/C the wife would like.....................JD

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Hey guys.

I ended up replaccing the 180˚ Hi Flow Robert Shaw style thermostat with the typical 170˚ Hi flow thermostat that I got from Casco. The car is running great. It gets up to temperature quickly and runs cool even the very hot and humid weather we are experiencing in Ontario. The car runs at mid gauge even in stop and go city traffic.

Dry Lakes Racer - you are correct - the bypass hose is simply a fixed displacement short circuit. The 3/8 pipe plug is too big to pass out of the hose in either direction - the 3/16 orfice hole is an air bleed to let bubbles out of the water pump when you shut the engine down. Its easy to try out and easy to fish out if you don't like what it does.

I've got three 3/16 bypass holes drilled in my 180° thermostat -because of where I live. It makes warm water migrate toward the thermostat and rad immediately on start-up.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Thanks Green...sound like the plug is just placed in the hose preferably near the pump end?

As I understand you the 5/8" hose bypass  lets hot water coming out of the intake manifold go right back into the pump and thru the engine without going thru the radiator.........right....Seem like I would have read this before.In my GM "C" brand we would drilla 1/8" hole in the thetmostat for a bypass.....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Dry Lakes Racer - Try throttling your bypass hose and see how that works for you - a 3/8 brass pipe plug with a 3/16 hole will do it.  That bypass is a port - three inches long and the size of a garden hose - running right past your radiator and it is very efficient as it connects directly to the suction side of the pump.

 

Another item that works - besides the free flow thermostat - is a smaller diameter pulley to move more water. Shown is a 302 single groove - used with a one inch spacer to place it in line with the y-block parts.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I wouldn't expect it to be since it should be the same as it was with the other thermostat. But yes, the bypass can play a part in some instances.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie, can the bypass be part of the problem here? Maybe it needs to be throttled back a little.....

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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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I too have been fighting what maybe an overheating problem. The engine (292) has 1500 miles and the new 160 thermostat I put in when I added a heavier duty radiator never seemed to settle down. It would continously move higher then lower then if I was stuck at a few lights it would go over 3/4's of the needle and not come back. I guessed it was following the opening and closing of the stat. It was not a high flow by what I learned here.

This weekend I changed it to a Mr. Gasket high flow for a Chrysler product. When testing, it started to open at 155 and was full open by 170. I put it in the engine and it now heats up a little slower but is steady at mid point of the stock guage slightly moving if stopped at a light but never going over 1/2 way.

My 1956 does not have the shield which divides the engine compartment from the grille area by sealing at the hood.

After changing the stat I made a flat cover to blank off the area right in front of the rad to the hood latch area.(25"x5") I was thinking the radiator was pulling hot air from under hood especially while idling and not through the grille. I put a similar plate on my sons 1/2 mile dirt Super Stock car because air was going over the slightly slanted rad. It fixed his problem.

My question, has anyone out there ever done this and should I look for a divider shield ? I could not find a shiled listed in my illustrations and referance manual........Thanks

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

If it's opening well before the thermostats rated temp, or that much coolant is simply getting by, then something is not operating correctly. Maybe you should double check the high flow unit in a pot of water.

Is it possible that the gasket tore between the bypass and thermostat portion?





Lawrenceville, GA

I believe the coolant begins flowing at high rate shortly after starting the car. The upper rad hose begins to firm up shortly after start-up well before the car even gets warm. I think thats the only explanation.