Cost some money but much better than scrapping the head! 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Here is a pic

Got the head back. Took it back to the machine shop. Don't blame him at all. It was a casting flaw that could be felt on the backside in the water jacket. Think it blew through once comp was on it. He sent it out for repair was $200 + shipping - surfaced cleaned oiled (wd-40) by smell lol. Had too look for wear it was. Back together now up and running :-)

Scott:

You could possibly fix it yourself.  Drill progressively larger holes through the damage until you feel you have enough meat to thread, then drill and tap for the next bigger pipe plug, and screw in a cast iron pipe plug from your local plumbing supply or hardware store.  Cut/grind it flush with the head surface and you are good to go.  You have nothing to lose at this point.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

No I not blaming the machine shop at all. I never even thought this would be an issue really from my research. I believe the machine shops work. I was in touch and saw the heads as work progressed. Just wondering if should try fixing. Thanks John. I am a japanese motorcycle mechanic so the stuff I build usually is all aluminum and you just change base gaskets and head gaskets etc. for changing squish. And porting and cam timing usually builds a strong motor. So building a V8 is new to me. Its old but new. Ted or Tim any experience with this problem or insight on your end.

Thanks

I would say the first thing you need to determine, was the hole caused by rot or was this a stray glob of sand during the casting process that caused a single thin spot.

If the head is generically rotted in the water passages then it isn't worth messing with.

If it is a localized thin spot it could be pinned or welded. Welding might be a better repair but a lot of shops won't surface the head after welding. The hard spots can destroy an expensive cutter.

A pin repair might fix it and the cast iron pins are easily machined.

Worst case you can re-use the valves, springs ect. ECZ-C heads are not terribly valuable. Maybe the shop would work with you on the cost of seat and guide work.

I wouldn't say the hole is their fault, we generally surface the heads after the seat and guide work so the deck doesn't get scratched. It has been said the shop should have noticed the hole but the installer didn't see it either.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

It sounds like the heads were done then run on the original block, giving the used vs. machined appearance.   With .040 off, maybe more from previous work, and assuming the block was decked too, the intake fit would be questionable without material taken from the head intake flanges.  No matter now.   

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I have the original block on a stand had the C2AE block prepped checked, squared and bored already then used the heads off original motor.  The surface of the head had the Permatex Copper Coat spray residue left on it as I used copper layer head gaskets.  The heads had radius valve job, guides cut for positive seals, hardened seats, new ex valves, and skimmed 40thou.

Ouch!  No need to check for bottoming head bolts now .  I totally agree, the head in the picture has not been milled anytime recently.  That has to be sickening.  What did the shop do to justify the $700?  It hasnt even been freshly cleaned.  Pull an exhaust valve and see if seats were installed, seats and valves ground.  Something is fishy. 

The C heads had 73 cc chambers originally.  Sunken seats from wear and multiple valve jobs can add to that number on a head with original surface.   

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

If the block is C2AE, it's not the original motor.

I think you'll have to start over with the heads. Maybe try a different shop. The pictured head was not milled; if .040" was taken off, it didn't happen recently. It doesn't look like much was done with them. They should have seen that hole and notified you before doing any work. It does not look like $700 worth of work to me.


Lawrenceville, GA