Nothing could stop me from buying the 65 Mustand that was setting up for 20 years!!  Now, after $4,000. it is on the road but gets hot right away, in 15 - 20 minutes.  Car has new radiator(yes, from China), new 160 degree thermos, engine was flushed with water and garden hose.  Heater was clogged at first and reverse garden hose opened that up.  After engine is started and runnning a reasonable while (radiator cap off) the thermos opens and water is flowing left to right in the radiator and appears to be in ample amount.  I let ir idle for a while with cap off to let air out.  I drove the car a little when I first pourchased it but never noticed it getting hot??  I have Peaks radiator flush in it right now and plan to drive it as much as possible in the next few days.  Will I need to pull the heads or completely tear engine down and tank the block?  This is an original two barrell car that starts good, runs and accelerates good!  Thanks for your help.         

Gary

My gut instinct says that you are having issues with your gauge and/or factory sender. When it gets "hot", is the radiator pushing coolant back through the cap and the overflow?

I would try using one of those mechanical gauges from Sunpro or Autometer, or maybe one of those infrared thermometers that are just and "point and shoot". This would give you an accurate reading to see how "hot" you are.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Car is really getting hot.  I think gauge and temp sender are reading correct.  On first real highway run car got hot and before I could get to a good stopping place the radiator tank ruptures at the seam.  I'm on my replacement China radiator (three row) now.  My thermo gun gauge reads 225 degrees on front of heads and water pump area and water is boiling.

Gary

Yeh, that 289 sounds HOT to me.

I have owned a couple of Mustangs, a 66 and a 67. Dealt with 289's and 302's,  but that was 20 years ago... I don't remember them being prone to overheating but it sure does sound like you have a distinct problem there.

I do remember someone on the forum a while back trying to peg an overheating problem for a car that had been sitting for a while. Come to find out, the water pump impeller wasn't spinning fast enough, or it had lost it's tight fit to the shaft (sitting in corrosion so  long IIRC). Could that be your problem maybe? Wouldn't cost much to take off the water pump, check that out, and then just use some Silicone Gasket Maker to put it back.

Let me ask you this... have you gotten the water to run clear when you drain the block? those pet cocks on the block would tell a large story if you think you may have corrosion inside the block and it has stopped up some passages. What is the water like when you drain the radiator now?

Just reread your two posts... if it is getting hot while you are at speed running down the road, then something somewhere is blocking the coolant/water from getting into that radiator and back to your engine...

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

The water pump thought is good. Pull it and see what you find. Could also be an accumulation of rust from sitting. You may have to flush it or have it flushed again. Lastly, if it's been sitting for twenty years I'd check the timing and make sure the distributor is advancing as it's supposed to. May find the weights frozen.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Gary

You did not mention new radiator hoses. The bottom hose will collapse if there is no spring in it or it has rusted away.

As was mentioned a RETARDED spark at the distributor will cause hotter running.

Do you have and use a fan shroud? The 289 when overbored more than .040 is very very thin in the cylinder walls.

 Give more detailed info AND YOU WILL GET A BETTER ANSWER. Pete

I had this same problem with a 65 Mustang 289. Long story short I found the head gaskets had been replaced and installed wrong. New set of gaskets and problem gone.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

If i remember correctly on my old 302 Ol' ford nut is correct I believe that if the head gaskets are installed reversed top face down they can block some cooling passages between the block and heads it has been a while though.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

Perhaps you've discovered why it sat for 20 years. If you can imagine someone having engine work done and then an unsolveable heating problam can park a lot of cars. Finding someone with the answer sometimes stretches into oblivion. Just a thought. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Losing water?  If not, then check that the gauge is reading correctly.  If you are losing water, then start checking that the water pump is turning the correct direction (there are different pumps for the small blocks), tight belts, good radiator cap, and the lower radiator hose is not collapsing.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)