Overheating problem solved. Had new radiator cleaned at shop and installed coolant filter in radiatior hose and all is good!  The rad had stopped up from scale/crud from block during all of my repair efforts stated herein!  Somewhere along the way I fixed it, meanwhile radiator got clogged.  Thanks to all  for help  

Gary

A quick and easy test to try...Remove the thermostat all together and try running engine. Might take a little longer to get to running temp, but if the thermostat is in backwards, or blocking flow for some other reason (rust particles previously mentioned) it might not be functioning correctly.



That lower radiator hose collapsing would most likely happen when engine warm, (rubber soft) and engine running at speed (Higher RPM Makes greater suction on hose)



Good luck.

I recently got my Mustang running again after sitting for probably 20 years. Among a host of problems, the head gaskets had failed. Had to pull the heads, have them surfaced, and install new gaskets. Might run a compression check and leakdown test.

I'll add another vote for head gasket(s) either improperly installed or just rotted out in the area where it is supposed to block off the front passage between the head and block.  If this engine has not been opened up since manufactured, I would also recommend that you replace the timing set and the valve stem seals before they fail causing major engine damage and leaving you on the side of the road.

Gary:

Some of the Studebaker guys with Chinese radiators have had overheating, and they attribute it to the fins on the radiator.  They are too close together to allow sufficient air to pass through, and overheat at highway speeds.  Just a thought.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks everyone.  I'm adding more details.  Car has new radiator, new 180F thermos, new radiator hoses, new water pump.  When I first starter driving the car a little I didn't notice it getting hot but I did notice the coolant looked rusty (100% tap water).  Then when I finally drove it some distance it got hot and I noticed small hunks of rust flakes in coolant.  I flushed the system with radiator flush and removed the radiator and flushed it upside down with water.  Drove it some and same results.  I flushed it again and changed the thermosthat to 160F(it has a small hole to allow water to fill the intake manifold).  I got a kit, distilled water and radiator flush and drove it some over two days with the flush stuff and it still got hot but not as hot and took much longer to get hot.  There was also a lot less rust looking particles.  I back flushed that out with the kit and filled with distilled water and a rust preventor.  (heater is on when driving and really puts out heat) Car still got too hot but was better. Heads registered 210F on thermo gun and may have gotten hotter if I drove it longer.  I will keep doing this until there is no rust present.  I have ordered a fan shroud and hope that will help some.  

Qusetion:  Should I remove the drain plugs from the block and drain?  Is that more trouble than it is worth?  Any other suggestions geatly apprected.    

Gary

Losing water?  If not, then check that the gauge is reading correctly.  If you are losing water, then start checking that the water pump is turning the correct direction (there are different pumps for the small blocks), tight belts, good radiator cap, and the lower radiator hose is not collapsing.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Perhaps you've discovered why it sat for 20 years. If you can imagine someone having engine work done and then an unsolveable heating problam can park a lot of cars. Finding someone with the answer sometimes stretches into oblivion. Just a thought. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

If i remember correctly on my old 302 Ol' ford nut is correct I believe that if the head gaskets are installed reversed top face down they can block some cooling passages between the block and heads it has been a while though.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

I had this same problem with a 65 Mustang 289. Long story short I found the head gaskets had been replaced and installed wrong. New set of gaskets and problem gone.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.