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Big hesitation on acceleration

Posted By Vicky55 13 Years Ago
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idaho211
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Didn't catch the second page sorry. Sounds like timing issue.
idaho211
Posted 13 Years Ago
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One idea could be to check spark of the wires. Once I had a bad wire that didn't show itself until more spark was needed on acceleration.
Vicky55
Posted 13 Years Ago
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My reply for some reason was not posted - I increased the timing to 16 - 18 degrees before TDC and 90% of the hesitation is gone - is 18 degrees to high ?  Will leaveing the timing this high cause any problems ? Thank You for your help  - Neil
joey
Posted 13 Years Ago
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When I said 17 degrees initial timing, I should have pointed out that my mechanical advance is limited to 22, for a total advance of 39 degrees.
GREENBIRD56
Posted 13 Years Ago
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If your distributor is a '59 - the base stem will look like this one - an Autolite product.

Under the point plate it will have a fly-weight arrangement like this - the slots control the total advance......

and the springs control how fast it opens up as it rotates. When a distributor is "recurved" - we change the slot length

and we change the strength of the springs as well. It isn't rocket science and a heads-up mechanic can persist in doing it himself - right in the driveway. You will like the results - even with the two barrel.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

GREENBIRD56
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Here's the deal with the timing - I'm hoping you have one of the later model units and not a "Load-o-matic"...different problems.

The engine has mechanical advance based on two things (1) What is the initial setting (done at idle with no vacuum advance hooked up)? And (2) how much centrifugal advance will the distributor allow as the RPM is raised? The two numbers are ultimately summed as the engine is accelerated.

If you change the initial - without limiting the total centrifugal - the total can reach a point where the engine may "knock" or detonate at higher RPMs under load - and that is bad. The mechanical advance limit - for a typical stock engine is proably 36°-38°. So if you want to run 16°-18° initial - it would be best to figure a way to limit the maximum. In my opinion this sort of high initial advance is only advisable if you are running "ported" vacuum to the vacuum canister on the distributor.

The "ported" vacuum source only provides a vacuum signal when the enigine is raised above idle. The "port" is uncovered by opening the throttle.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

joey
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Vicky55 (7/16/2012)
Thanks again for all your help - 90% of hesitation is gone by increasing the timing - went to 16 or 18 degrees before BTDC sounds high will it be O.K. for easy driving ??

I don't think that is a problem, as long as a) you have no detonation (pinging or knocking) going on, b) it turns over normally upon starting, and c) your idle doesn't get too high. The pinging is a very important consideration. I run with initial timing set at 17 BTDC in my 312, but my heads have not been milled. Also avoid the low octane gasoline. It costs a bit more at the pumps, but it's worth it.

Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Maybe the damper ring has slipped, and you are not really running 18 degrees.  Drive the car and keep advancing the timing until you experience pinging under load, then retard it until the ping goes away. 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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Vicky55
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Thanks again for all your help - 90% of hesitation is gone by increasing the timing - went to 16 or 18 degrees before BTDC sounds high will it be O.K. for easy driving ??
FORD DEARBORN
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Greetings to all: These carbs have been out of production for many years. Any casting parts will have to come from a donor carburetor. It's often possible to pick up a 70's vintage Ford 2 barrel at swap meets should you need the later pump front end and linkage. The point is, there can be no lost motion from the throttle lever to the pump diaphragm. Just a couple degrees will cause a stumble. Watch the pump discharge jets. Do they deliver a good healthy squirt the instant the throttle lever is advanced? Or is there a delay? Hope this will be of some help.

64F100 57FAIRLANE500


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