I'm restoring my 1956 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan and I've been told by several people to be careful when buying and installing door and trunk seals because they can be (1) too thick and/or (2) can be installed improperly, both of which will cause the doors and trunk to not close all the way flush with the surrounding sheet metal. I've tried to research this subject, hoping to find where to buy the seals that are the correct thickness and flexibility, and to find some pictures or directions for installing them. The packaged ones I've seen have a fold in the rubber that could be installed with the fold facing either inward on the door, or outward, but no directions as to which is correct. I know a lot of forum members have probably been through this before and any advice on what to buy and how to install would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Ron.

I have just fitted a set of Dennis Carpenter door seals to my Customline (4 door) and now none of the doors will close properly.
I have moved the catches fully out and still have to slam the doors with both hands so the seals are heaps too thick.
I noticed that at the area adjacent to the star wheel on the door catch that the upper section of seal is a lot thicker than the lower section
The doors have been left closed now for around 3 weeks but it is not making any difference to them.

Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod

I did the door seals on my 64 Galaxie over 8 years ago and still have to slam the doors. I think the rubber compound is way too hard. I worked at the AMC plant in Kenosha for 3 years and never saw any doors they had to slam because the weather strip was new. If someone knows a better place to get them, I'm interested too

Here's an update: I've heard of other people having problems with Dennis Carpenter's product--and I've personally recently experienced their poor customer support--so I stayed away from them and ordered my seals from Steele Rubber Products (http://www.steelerubber.com/). I will update this again after I receive and install everything. Thank you for your responses!

I got mine through Macs but I think they may have been from Dennis Carpenter..?? Anyway I just had a real good look at how the originals sat and went from there.. Yes the doors may feel a little "tight" A lot has to do with your locks on the frame if the door bounces open when shutting .. New ones could be in order [ thanks to Rick55 for the advice on that] , just did mine Im having no probs after all adjusted well..



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I put the Carpenter door seals on my ’55 Customline back in 1990 and will agree that they are simply too stiff. The doors have been tough to close now for a lot of years but if there’s any consolation, they are now getting slightly easier. I’m in the process of collecting parts for a ’55 Club Sedan and am also interested in any door seals out there that will allow the doors to close much easier than with the Carpenter rubbers.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I just had a look at my Steele Rubber Catalog.They show the same Part # for both Ford and Mercury applications for both the 4 and 2 dr models.I am interested to hear how Ron finds them as far as fit and quality also.I have a set for my 4dr from Carpenters still in the bag unused.Glad that this topic was posted now.Might make me sell the Carpenter ones and go with another supplier.Very surprised to hear that the Carpenter ones are not as good as would be expected.Rubber was supposed to be his specialty I thought?Something else that may be of interest to anyone with a 4 dr like mine.The rear door fixed "vent window" rubber is available from Steele Rubber.This is something that Carpenter has not gotten around to making.Theres a set listed on Ebay if you want to have a look at them.

  

I was not aware Steel Rubber Products had parts for our cars assuming incorrectly that they catered to GM products due to the fact that they advertise mostly in GM publications.

That said I was pleasantly surprised that they have parts for my Ranchwagon. They even have a free service where they put together a custom pdf file of parts they carry for your specific year/model so you don't have to search their whole catolog. Free Parts List link.


"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

I have lost count of the number of these seals and other models i have fitted in over 40 yrs, in the 70,s it was a godsend that someone finally had moulded door seals (DC) instead of the universal arrow head rubber, which didnt seal round front part of door , so i began importing carpenter products. Everyone will have a view of their problem and whatever product used but there are many nuances (thanks ted for that word) that appears to be rubbers fault but isnt. Too many to go into and dont want to see replies if i mention any but one thing i have noticed in last 12 months is definitly the lack of quality control that carpenters relied on. One thing i have allways noticed is the varying sections of the rubber moulded joined corners, otherwise if fitted correctly did the job. One hint i can offer is to allways get a rag soaked in wax n grease remover or petrol and pull door seal through it to remove graphite type release agent from rubber, this will ensure the adhesive will stick to the rubber properly, also if going to do while doors are on car is to use artists long handle 1/2' wide paint brush, this lets you get to front of inner front door edges with the adhesive. Just my views and sure will see other thoughts here.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Mine are getting better too, after 7 years!! Bills got some good ideas there, maybe he's done a few of them!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart)