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Coffeepot Carburetor

Posted By John Titman 12 Years Ago
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Ted
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John Titman (9/17/2013)
Thanks for the suggestion but, I want my car to be totally stock. I previously had the motor in my 56 delivery with a 57 600cfm

Holley and it ran great .I suspect my problem may be something quite obscure such as a faulty ignition coil or such. When the

car is real hot it will stall when put in gear and it stutters and misses I f I leave until cool it will run not bad.

Yours Sincerely, John


John. If you had a '57 model Holley, I suspect the cfm was in the neighborhood of 450 cfm, not 600. If you have the Ford part number or the list number off of the choke horn of that particular carb and post either, that information can be verified. List numbers are a bit quicker to lookup though so use that one first if you have it. Kudos to you for wanting to keep the Teapot as they get very good fuel mileage when they are running right.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


John Titman
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Thanks for the suggestion but, I want my car to be totally stock. I previously had the motor in my 56 delivery with a 57 600cfm

Holley and it ran great .I suspect my problem may be something quite obscure such as a faulty ignition coil or such. When the

car is real hot it will stall when put in gear and it stutters and misses I f I leave until cool it will run not bad.

Yours Sincerely, John
ejstith
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Bruce Compton (9/6/2013)
John : Do yourself a big favor and replace the "teapot" with a Holley 390 CFM 4V. You will need an adaptor for the '56 intake, or get a '57 intake, but the change will make it seem like you just installed a new motor. Bruce


John, it sounds like you really want the "teapot" to work. However if you decide to put a 390 Holley on it go ahead & get some #56-#57 jets at the same time. I chased a flat spot for a year (changing squirters etc) & with the help from this site I put 57's in it and problem solved.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL
PF Arcand
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Guys! When someone like John posts a tech question because he has a serious running problem with his car (I met him recently & suggested to him he should try our site for a solution) & members try to help him solve it, it's very annoying & rude, to have others interject what is essentally irrelevant personal stuff into the discussion. If you have to post that stuff, do it under a seperate heading such as This and That..


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yalincoln
Posted 12 Years Ago
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hi, looks like a couple of 2140 end carbs and a 2140G, governed center carb? used with 4 bolt adaptors on a 3 bolt tri- power intake.

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.
Ted
Posted 12 Years Ago
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For the Holley Model 4000 carbs (Teapots), installing the air cleaner stud with a nylon gasket between the stud nut and the cover usually fixes the leaky bushing for the power valve circuit. The carb top cover gasket on the lower side of the cover takes care of any potential vacuum leaks at the bottom side of the cover's center bushing.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


bn
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Ok, I have one bad cover and one good one. By applying compressed air (using an air nozzle with a small tapered rubber end) to the Power Valve Port while holding thumb over the Vacuum Port, I get an obvious flow of air out the Bushing Port. Doing the same with the good Cover (even when holding the Cover under water) there is no air flow out the Bushing Port at all.

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bn
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Actually, it's called the "cover" (instead of "cap") in the 1956 Ford Car shop manual. I think we are talking about the same part. An exploded view of the carburetor is shown in Fig 62 on Pg 103. I've slept lots of times since I did this, but I found my box of spare carb parts and on one of the covers I had written, "Bad, leaky power valve circuit." On page 106 the first paragraph reads,

"To check the operation of the power valve diaphragm press down on the stem, cover the vacuum passage in the cover with the thumb, and release the stem. If the diaphragm or center bushing does not leak, the stem will NOT return all the way down. If the stem does go to the limit of its travel, repeat the check, this time covering both ends of the center bushing, as well as the vacuum passage (the outer port between the two front mounting screw holes). If the stem holds steady now, the bushing is leaking and the main body cover should be replaced. If the stem leaks down all the way, replace the diaphragm and stem assembly."

When they say "the bushing is leaking" I think what they meant was that the cover has an internal leak.

It seems like I found the problem by applying compressed air, rather than the above procedure from the shop manual. I will do some more investigating and post more if I find anything else.

You have a beautiful car!
MoonShadow
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Only in Maine would somebody build a "6 barrell" with teapots. You are a wild one Bill. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

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Y block Billy
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Being the coffee lover I am, I have always said you can steal my car, my money, my wife no problem, but if you spill my coffee I may get ugly.

That said I have to have 3 coffee pots going at all times on my buggy wrecker.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/df3572ed-2db4-4000-bfd0-0b65.JPG

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/dd612720-3ba4-44c1-80fd-0ab9.JPG

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?



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