Ha.. I wish I had some oil splash. This is my luck. engine sounded great. stupid cam bearings. Thinking I'm either going to just do the external oil line fix or just take the valve covers off like once a week and oil them. I mean it's geared low, I'm not going to be going on long trips or anything just staying local. I'm in the process of having a big garage built so maybe over the winter ill pull it and go through it the correct way.. Thanks for all the help though, you guys helped me out alot.

It would be rear hole on intake side that usually has short bolt in it, that plug may be there to stop any oil splash from p/rods.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

The front hole should not have any plug. An intake manifold bolt threads in there. The very rear hole should have a short bolt in it to plug the hole.


Lawrenceville, GA

So heres a question.. Heads are off and I noticed on the very front intake manifold hole on the head it has a rubber plug in it? Is that there for a reason or did I miss something?

If you're TEMPORARILY going to go this route when we used to do this we would flip the drivers side rocker arm shaft around so the copper tubing goes in the back stud (like the passenger side) so it isn't so noticeable. Run the copper tubing behind the engine instead of over the top like in Checks pictures. The oil doesn't care which end it goes in. Just remember to flip it back WHEN you fix it correctly.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

I'm thinking it would be near impossible to drop it in the first place with the cam still in!!! ha,ha


Sorry, Chuck. Just having some fun...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

You would have to come up with a way to hold all of the lifters to the top of their bores. Its been done with sightly modified wooden clothes pins. Cutting a curve in the faces to more completly clip onto the lifter. Its possible some of the more modern office clips would work. Problem is if you drop one its nearly impossible to get it back in with the crank, rods and cam in the way. If you manage to hole them up then you will need to pull the radiator and possible the grill to get the cam out.

You may be able to rent or borrow a cam bearing installer from one of the local parts stores. If the cam and bearings are bad you need to remove them all including the last one in the block that is behind a freeze plug in the back of the block above the crankshaft. If reuseable you would need to get the tool into the center bearing and rotate it to line up with the holes (or groove). You would probably need to remove the front cam bearing to get to the center one or get it out.

This is by all means not a simple job and if the oil flow problem has been there for a long time there may be other bearing damage. I would at least pull a couple of main caps and rod caps to check the condition of those bearings.

The add on oil system taps off one of the oil galleys (plugs in line with the oil pressure gauge fitting) and carries oil under pressure from there to a Y fitting that carries oil into the rocker covers. The better ones have a hollow valve cover retaining stud that allows the oil to enter the rocker shafts and oil the rockers per original design. Easily done with the engine in the car and would be a temporary fix for your problem.

Chuck



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I know the oil hole in the heads are clear and in the rocker stay. In the block I took a wire down through the hole but it came to a firm stop quite a ways in. I assumed it was hitting the inside. Is it possible at all to do the cam and bearings with the engine still in? Gotta be a trick somewhere.

One type of cam has oil holes that line up as the engine turns the other has a groove around the cam that feeds oil all the time. Sometimes the grooved type will get loaded up with gunk/varnish and stop feeding oil. The only way to check for this is to pull the cam. As mentioned this is better done with the block out of the car. Did you check the oil passage in the head where it has a "dog leg" in it. Its mostly flat and can get clogged. Also try running a stiff wire down through the oil passages in the block to make sure they are clear. If they are then its probably a cam or cam bearing problem. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I guess I have some thinking to do. I wanna say not pull the cam but then again if the bearings have moved then that would be my oil issue. I'll have to think on it. It's apart and would be easy to just go ahead and do the came while I'm this far. Goodness..