That 2100 is a 1954 use only on the Y-Block. Sounds like either a leaking power valve gasket (use a nylon, not cardboard) or the base to bowl gasket (holds vacuum around the power vavle) and is hard to see on the engine.


welding and grinding, welding and grinding.........oh my....

John. Thanks for catching that. A bit of brain fade on my part as I was thinking on the lines of a model 2300 Holley, not the 2100 series. Some of what I said fits but definitely not all of it.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I normally use a nice flat sharpening stone and run it over any surfaces I want to make sure are flat, stones dont lie and will show any high spots. I have a pile of them for different purposes. I dont get stoned (nowadays) but boy do I do a lot of stoning!

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Four bolt metering block on a 3 bolt 2 barrel Holley/Ford?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

As would a perforated diaphragm at the distributor.

If you're going to have the carburetor pulled completely down checking for warpage at the base plate, you might also check that the main body surface where the metering block connects is not warped or pulled forward at the four corners. Also check that the fuel discharge boosters are tight within the main body. Any of these conditions will make for a leaner running condition.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I haven't checked that yet as I have not torn it down that far again. I am going to re-jet it when the new jets come in and put a different float (one that I have checked for accuracy) in. I'll check it then. I am thinking my vacuum leak may be the connection from the distributor advance line to the carb. I listened to the carb with a piece of fuel line and heard the most noise there. I couldn't find any obvious splits or problems, but the line is pretty well aged and looks like it may be original to the car. Have a new one coming. I have noticed small amounts of fuel leaking around all the gaskets. Don't know if I just didn't tighten it down enough or what.

One of these days I'm going to figure this out...

Hi again: Did you check for warped gasket surfaces on the bottom of the main body and top of the throttle body as I suggested in your first post?? A vacuum leak there will allow the PV to stay open as well as allow extra air into the system just below the throttle plates. Bruce

Don't know if this will post or not. Tried posting a while ago but it didn't take. Anyway, I put the old valve back in and it works fine now. I noticed that the power valve was loose when I took the carb apart, which would probably explain the progressively poor performance. Took it out on the highway and noticed surging at all speeds and on acceleration. Been reading about that and have found that surging indicates a lean condition. I find this very odd as the jets that are in it now are much bigger than the jets that I originally had. Plus, I am not hearing the popping sound out of the exhaust that was present before. I think I'm pretty much at the limit of what I can do. I don't know much about vacuum, but would a vacuum leak present surging like this?

Some carb kits include both a power valve and a spark control valve. They both have the same thread. As I remember, the spark valve has a cap over the diaphragm opening, and maybe the cap is tall enough to prevent the bottom and center parts of the carb to bolt up tightly, causing the vacuum leak. It is easy to get the two mixed up when assembling the carb.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"