Are you running a thermostat? Speeding up the fan is also a help but don't get carried away. I once had a hobby stock 74 Lincoln (long story) that we swapped pullies on. It took a couple of loses to figure out why the upper radiator hose kept blowing off. Usually on the last lap with us leading. All that hot water makes it hard to drive. Or so our driver said. I think he was just making excuses for losing. :-( Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Seems to me that the "ultimate" answer has always been - more cores in the radiator. Adding a small auxiliary cooler doesn't seem to be a bad idea - so long as the radiator material will take the coolant with no ill effects. Could just plumb in another heater core to the bypass port I suppose and locate it where?

The other answer I've seen, is use of one of the "street-rod" fan forced condensers that allows relocation out of the radiator airstream.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I have try 2 new 180 thermostat and also have a 2700 cfm pusher on it/I guess Im have a hard time understanding how a smaller pulley on water pump is going to help me /If there is only a temp difference of 10 degrees now/ It looks like to me smaller pulley would move the coolant faster through the rad which would make for even a smaller temp drop/which to my way of thinking would make engine run hotter

I don't really understand that article. It also says 14 rules, but stops at 9, unless I'm missing something. Because of that, I'm not taking it as fact until I see more to support it. However, it does indicate that increasing coolant flow can help. Because it gets hot only in slow traffic, an increase in pump rpm may actually help. When you're cruising, the pump is operating at a higher rpm and airflow should be better. Assuming airflow is still sufficient at 25mph, then to move more coolant through the radiator may help. If it does work, it will be the least intrusive option. That would make it worth a try if it were me.

A recent issue of Hot Rod, it may be the current issue, has an article about fixing a cooling issue. It's that section where someone has a problem and they go through the diagnoses and repair step by step.


Lawrenceville, GA

smaller pulley could be the way to go but when I did my installed on my a/c I wanted a 2 belt sys The only 2 belt water pump pulley I could fine was off a large farm truck /any ideals were I could fine a smaller 2 belt pulley that would work?

Possibly one of these:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/water-pump-pulleys/groove-quantity/2?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending

And maybe in a salvage yard.


Lawrenceville, GA

correct me if Im wrong but I have been told that the belt alignment will be off with the crank pulley when you try to use a chev pulley/ anybody know for sure if this work?

I don't know. If you find one that has the right pilot and bolt pattern and is a little deeper than needed, you can shim it. The link includes Ford, GM and Mopar applications so it is a lot of potential options.


Lawrenceville, GA

10dgrs diference,180 stat if temp goes to 200 not a problem. is your gauge meckanical,elect gauges ar not acurate. speeding up the pump is a risk,cavitation could be a result,esp at higher rpm.with elct gauge you will not see ups and downs . even 210 will not hurt as long as no cavitation(which creates bubles and steam pockets.

Was surprised to read that more cores can in some cases slow the flow too much and create an insulating barrier that is counter productive. What I don't understand is why at the end it says copper conducts better than aluminium, but aluminium radiators seem to cool better, maybe it is in the design not the material. I do to some degree feel vindicated after several months ago being shot down in flames for mentioning concerns about radiator damage and cavitation problems with the practice of restricting the bye pass hose.