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runs hot

Posted By kansas 12 Years Ago
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skygazer
Posted 12 Years Ago
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The Master Cylinder (12/12/2013)
Most radiators are either brass or aluminum, not copper.
Really copper tubes/fins, soldered into brass upper & lower end shells. Copper isn't as strong as aluminum, so the flattened tubes must be smaller to withstand the pressure. Aluminum gains efficiency by having more surface area per tube, but multi-row copper radiators (e.g. Optima) can pack a lot of tubes.


Here's a related link.


sorry for contributing to the hijack!
ian57tbird
Posted 12 Years Ago
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And we're just starting summer, but it is not an average day December day, getting cooler this week. Six years ago it was 113F on Xmas day and 115F the day after. We don't see too much snow at Christmas time.
slick56
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Aussie Jingle Bells

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJkDN5ptcWA

.


South Australia




slick56
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Western Australia mate, summer over here..

.


South Australia




The Horvaths
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I'm guessing that it's late Spring where he's at. Seasons change as you cross the equator.
Ted
Posted 12 Years Ago
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ian57tbird (12/15/2013)
.... I had my car out today and it is 41Celsius/106Farenheit ......
Where are you at that the temperature is still 106°F?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


ian57tbird
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Out of interest I measured my pulleys this afternoon and to my surprise my fan and pump are under driven. A bit hard to measure but I came up with about 6.5 inches for bottom and 7.5 inches for pump/fan. The pump pulley is obviously not original, it is a very heavy machined steel item. I had my car out today and it is 41Celsius/106Farenheit and the temp gauge did not move but when I've been stuck in traffic in the past with those temps it would start to creep up, but has never boiled. I don't have air conditioning either. There is room for improvement but I don't have any major cooling problems It has a 3 core radiator (thought I read somewhere they were originally 2 core) and it has a 5 blade fan with large flex blades, not sure what that is off. I also put a NAPA premium 180 degree thermostat in it that seems to do the job OK, soon after getting the car I discovered it never had any thermostat at all.

Sounds like a good idea putting a thematic clutch on the fan when overdriving it. The faster the fan spins the more HP and gas it consumes.

Any ideas what cars got this fan, I read a part number, CF-D40E on one of the blades?
ian57tbird
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My mistake, mostly brass with copper fins. Though brass is mostly copper it's surprising how much the alloying changes it's heat conducting.


vntgtrk
Posted 12 Years Ago
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GB your info here is good to know. I signed up here to learn. And boy am I doing that! The W/P pulley I'm using is for a Chebbie big block. It's a bit smaller, haven't measured the difference yet. I'll be running two belts even though I only have an alternator to start with. Good place to keep a spare belt and it will look way cool. If any of you say you haven't done some mods just due to the cool factor, well, no I don't wanna buy a bridge.
OP have you given thought to using a smaller w/p pulley? Could be all you need
GREENBIRD56
Posted 12 Years Ago
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This has been discussed on here any number of times - and there are more than a few that have made these modifications and found them to their liking. I believe in performing functional tests (an engineers disease) and tried the "hose on the manifold bypass port" test as soon as a guy mentioned it to me. Thunderbirds are particularly sensitive to heating (small radiator and inefficient WP mounting) and Tucson has heat to spare. Letting that much hot water constantly bypass the radiator (even after the engine was warm) wasn't to my liking.

I know that my T-bird responded immediately to changing to the high flow thermostat - as predicted by the CASCO test you see on their site. It amounts to simply putting more water through the same radiator. Charlie has recently reported that to get a good one - the thermostat that Milodon now markets, seems to have a quality edge. I've been using the Mr. Gasket parts - and the 160º has worked well - the 180º stutters a bit. You could also drill the auxiliary passages in a large poppet style T-stat such as sold by NAPA (170º) - probably have to fit them around the edges.

The "three hole" (drilled) Robertshaw style thermostat can be seen on the Stewart waterpump site - and yes they are unfortunately, Chebbie oriented - but they are very competent. They use the drilled thermostats with a performance engine set-up to have NO bypass. When I asked about this, Ted advised using an orifice that still allowed a small free bypass passage. For the good reason of allowing any bubbles to exit the water pump cavity when the engine was stopped. Fact is - engines with the two modifications purge quite nicely when you are filling them with fresh coolant.

Yes the modification slows down the warm-up period - again, no big deal in SoCal or Arizona or points south - but noticeable in Michigan. Ford also used a small initial spark advance and ported vacuum advance on these engines - which leaves them clunking along quite retarded at idle - which also speeds warm-up. Most of us have added more initial advance - which makes for better performance of the engine in general - but the increased advance also slows warm-up. The sum of this could make an outfit pretty "cold blooded" in the extreme - but I've had some pretty nasty engine combos in cold climates - and enthusiasts live with it. I know I did - it wasn't my wife's car.

I put the smaller WP pulley on my engine after realizing that at hot idle - water flow into the top tank was (to be polite) very sluggish. My last restoration project was a '67 Cougar (289 automatic) and at idle it easily showed twice the water flow as the T-bird. The remedy was to use the 289 size upper pulley - yes it jacks up the WP revs, but it didn't hurt the Cougar and it had a higher hot idle speed in drive. What then occurred was the fan speed was too high to suit me - so I went looking for a thermostatic clutch (Hayden). They fit nicely on a T-bird - not so nicely on a sedan.

The sum of this is - that making the car behave to suit ME - required some thought and testing and "re-engineering" to get what I wanted. This sure isn't the total number of changes I've made in the name of reliability or performance - and there are more to come I'm sure. If some of the things I've tried or tested can help another of us - I'm going to share them.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona


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