verry nice setup,i certenly ws not trying to be criticaal of the dyno as never saw it,just trying to get a point of vew to in car so caled over heating. wish i lived closer would have my spare 292 dynoed ther. cliff

HAH!! Should have known you guy's would be way ahead of me...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

I have one of Ted's elec pumps (SN # 002) on my 337" engine. The small bypass hose works fine, no problems keeping the engine cool as long as I remember to turn the fan on after a run.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

The amount of time saved in not dealing with the bypass hose on the dyno mule more than outweighs any disadvantages that results from running without it. At this point, I’ve learned to live without the bypass hose or a bleeder valve on the dyno mule as I can initially rev the engine a few times and clear the air lock enough that water flow is established after refilling the engine with coolant. Not having a thermostat at the intake makes this quite doable. Once the water flow is established, there’s no issue with coolant circulation until the water is drained again and then refilled.

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Here are a couple of pictures showing the bleeder valve setup being used on the 2009 Engine Masters Challenge entry. While this worked for removing the air from the timing cover and water pump, it was frowned upon at the EMC simply due to it being something that had to be cleaned up prior to starting up the engine.

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For the 2010 EMC entry, I simply plumbed a small bypass hose (#3 AN) from the electric water pump to the thermostat housing which made the system a self-priming affair after that. No mess, no fuss. Here’s a picture of that particular bypass hose which worked quite well.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

re bleading air,coment on super coup,similer to 97 mustang,rads are low in relation to the top of cylender heads, which make filling dificult plus ther is extensive aluminum that will be eroded with air in the system. dynoes are a great tool for hp tests,any dynoes i have witnesed have huge radiators and or water tower and not very acurate to rate a cooling system in a car. when 1 spends the $ for alumn heads and intake the cavitation and air bubles that form will create damage down the road. another isue is running the engine cold is hard on fuel,the lube oil is slow to warm and the detergent has dificulty doing its job,exsesive oil pressure and delution from unberned fuel. as well as poor performance. seems the wory of over heating is over stated 210 with any presure cap over 10ps is ideal, even higher temp ar fine as long as it does not boil. with anty freze and pressure cap of 15 psi if you have temps over 230 you have diferent isues causing the prob. i notised a large % of the 2x4 intakes are junk do to erosion,i have 1 that is ok but rejected 4 listed on ebay as water pasegs wher detroyed. my 2011 eco boost ford runs all day towing a 7500pounr 5th at engine temp over 200 , it to has alum heads ,and the waterpump has a bypass hose. moveing coolent out of the engine before the therm openes makes no sence,if ther is a isue creating over heat
(pluged rad leaking head gask.poor air flow re mising shrouds etce,to smal a fan) you will have over heating even if you throw away the stat,it will just take a bit longer. and remember ,water gauges and therms need air free water to work corectly. some will say what a load of horse ----.but it is my opinionand learning from40years of heavey eque,and hotrods

Ted, I wonder if you could install a small bleeder valve on the timing cover to vent air simplify your life preping for Dyno runs. What made me think of this is I have a '89 Super Coupe and there is a tube with a plug near the Supercharger that you remove when refilling the coolant to vent air.

Just a thought...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

The bypass does require some kind of hole in it to simply remove the air from the top of the timing cover. Without that hole, there is an initial overheating that is the result of an 'air lock' that takes place until the water flow can establish itself through that up and down passage within the timing cover. I do run the Y test engine on the dyno without the bypass hose simply to expedite manifold changes but have to work the throttle up and down initially to get that air lock taken care of. As little as a 1/16" hole is all that's required but the larger sized holes (3/16") in the cars are recommended simply so that the hole itself does not get plugged with debris.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hey guys, thanks for all the input. I never had any problem before with the old motor, and I'm only doing a mild upgrade - 272 to 292 +.060 bore, mild cam, open up the chambers a bit on '57 heads to make it breathe easier. Plus a few other goodies - but I don't want to steal this thread I thought I would put a 5 blade fan on it though, for a bit of insurance.

There is enough Yblock experience here to say it works, but personally I think it is a modification of last resort. Restricting the bypass needs to be compensated for by drilling the thermostat, which will increase engine warm up time. With a 3/16 hole it would not flow enough to act as an effective bypass any more and would only serve to bleed air from the pump. I think it would be best NOT to block it completely.

leav it the way henry made it,go to googel and look upcooling system design. it is my opinion you will wind up with pump cavitation and damage a fresh engine.airiated water will not register temp acuately the by pase is a necesary part of the cooling system and keeping the engine at a constant temp. just my take .