I don't like being the harbinger of bad news, but I put the original 292 out of my car in a electrolysis bath for 6 weeks- bubbled like hell for a while, but in the end, no cigar. I acquired a 312 in a parts car that was seized tight, I decided to bust the pistons out in pieces (and did) only to find 6 cylinders that needed to be sleeved. I hope you have better luck than I did. /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

I've had to cut rod into that I could not reach the nuts on, once you get the crank out, a BFH and solid bar (last time I used a piece of 1/2 X 2 flat bar) on the bottom of the piston will bring them out.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Hey guys, I'm having the same problem. I've tried everything, including an air chisel. I'm try electrolysis now, I've cut the top off a 55 gallon drum, put a couple of 2x4 on the bottom, set the block in w/ the hoist up just enough to tension the chain(not enough for the block to move). Here is a link that explains the process:

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp  

I've modified it a bit, but it is bubbling and a rust foam has covered the surface. Hope it works, I would really like to have the 312 crank and rods....

Moderator edit: link fixed by adding a space directly behind it.

I had to do a similar thing when I got my engine from the scrap yard.  I spent about a month being patient but I needed to get it apart.  I think I wound up spliting 4 pistons in two before I got it to budge.

Now on to the fun stuff!

Lawrenceville, GA

I worked up a sweat just reading this....I hope everything else in your re-build adventure, is....well, a little less work!



reed

Reed Patridge
Birmingham, Al
1936 Ford Pickup, Flathead powered cruiser
Model A Roadster, 292" Y-Block "project" vehicle

ust an update- I spent a few afternoons doing the following; I found the biggest holesaw I had and used it to remove a 2 1/2" plug from all the pistons (4) that were "up" in the bores. I then sectioned the remainder of the tops of the pistons with a Sawzall, cutting towards the OD using care so as not to cut into the cylinder walls. Then with a hammer and a few sharp chisels and the drill and various size bits I carefully removed what remained of the pistons down to and including the rings. A cross section of a few pistons confirmed my suspicion, that being, a 2+ yr soak with PB BLASTER was a waste of time, money, and oil. The sides of the pistons that were rusted to the bores were completely dry. After I finished hammering on things (hands included) I was more than happy to walk away from it for a week. (I soaked everything down with Marvelous Mystery oil first.) This morning with a do or die trying attitude, I attacked what remained of the pistons. With much difficulty and many expletives (& some luck) I was able to "raise" the crank after removing all the bolts I could get to. Once I got the crank removed (FINALLY) I was able to beat the pistons out from the bottom. The tops broke off two in the process, but the main thing was ALL THOSE SEIZED PISTONS WERE FINALLY OUT! I'm not entirely sure how, but I didn't put a single mark on anything I need to save- EXCEPT The tool to pull the balancer off distorted the ID of the crank snout somewhat, as I couldn't get the crank bolt back in. I think the machine shop can iron it out, though. I want to say Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions, I really appreciated it. I hope you fellas won't mind answering a few more questions, as I know I'll have a few when I get to reassembly.... Thanks Again [Smile]

BOO- YA!!!

This is a second attempt to post so if duplicte, sorry. As a last resort try Google - rust removal by electrolysis. This WILL destroy aluminum pistons and copper bearings but it will remove all the rust from your 312. A large plastic tub, a battery charger and some wash soda and in one or two days NO RUST. If you do try this method please post the results.

BP blaster has worked good for me,at gitting down beside the piston,after pulling the heads,and cleaning as much as i can out and off walls,set block with one head side up and pull BP in them,let site over nite,add some next AM,turn to other side and repete,by 5;00 or so it should be ready to put a crow bar or very  big screw driver from a bolt [were bell housing bolts too to the flywheel and work it back and forth tell you can get it all apart.

"The Bat" out of hell

50's & 60's hotrodder

retired speed shop owner,built and design hotrods, racecars

airbrush t-shirts, engine balancing

Miami fl.

1 last thing remove rocker gear first!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1957 ________________ Ford

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Y Blocks, The New Flathead!

O.K. One last suggestion in desperation, make an adadter for the spark plug hole on a cylinder on the down stroke and fit a grease nipple to the adapter and see if by filling the cavity with grease you can hydraulic the piston downward with a lever action grease gun, obviously you could do more than 1 piston providing they are all headed down ward. if its that stuck its worth a shot, you aint got much to loose.

1957 ________________ Ford

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(@)________V__________(@)

[________I_____I_________]

__[__]__ o_______o___[__]___



Y Blocks, The New Flathead!