One other thing you can check is the vent on your gas tank. The vent exits just to the side of your filler cap, it is that 5/16 steel line with a rubber grommet.

I have seen this type of problem when the tank vent line was plugged and the owner had replaced the original cap with one of the new emissions type pressure-vacuum cap's used on the later cars. The vacuum feature would allow enough air into the tank for the car to run OK when being operated, but when shutdown would cause a pressure in the tank and force fuel through the carb causing a flooding condition. The reverse would happen when the temperature dropped and the car cooled down over night it then would draw the fuel back from the line causing hard starting in the AM.



To check if your vent is clear take off your gas cap and give a shot of compressed air in the vent line to check if clear. I would only do this if the tank is below half full so it doesn't force gas out the fill spout towards you or place a rag over the fill spout to catch any splash. Make sure cap is off so you don't damage your tank if given to much air pressure. Check to see if your cap has pressure-vacuum written on it also

marv

My gas cap barely stays on. Not sure if its the right one. Could this be a/the problem? will check vent line that makes sense.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

John,

Thanks for the advice. I looked on the carb and it only has the thin gasket between it and the manifold. Do you know where I can get a spacer and longer studs?

I also looked for the clip on the accelerator rod but all I saw was the screw that attaches the linkage... It may have been taken off before I got it.  Also the heat riser has been pinched off on the manifold and a plug is in the carb where I assume the riser should go. 

Here is a pic of what I see... Please let me know if you see any glaring issues or if the heat riser being missing could cause more problems.

Thanks!

Andrew 56-Vicky

Andrew:

The insulator blocks are no longer available from Ford, they show up on ebay occasionally.  I have heard of people fabricating them from a piece of fine grained hardwood.  Longer studs should be available at your local parts store.

The clip was not present on all T-pots, or as you said, maybe someone took it off.  I can't tell in the pic if the hole is there or not.

The heat riser I was referring to is the flapper valve that is sandwiched between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe.  The tubes you are talking about are the choke heat and fresh air tubes.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Andrew,I have the same carb setup as you.I just bought an original style carb to manifold gasket on Ebay.It has a steel shim between asbestos like material instead of the cardboard you get with the carb kits.The seller has one more if you are interested.item#180246031166.He's calling it a spacer but it is a special gasket.I have not put mine on yet but it might help your problem.Regards Mark 

  

Mark,

I grabbed that spacer from ebay, thanks for the tip

 John,

The heat riser from the exhaust was long gone by the time I put a new system on it.  I figured since it's usually pretty warm here I didnt bother replacing it.  Could the other tubes that are pinched on the manifold be causing me any issues?

It does have a small hole in the accelerator pump rod just above the screw that attaches it to the linkage. Is that the hole?  Since this site only allows 400x400 pics (even in PM or email) I uploaded the original pics to a share that can be seen more clearly.

http://cid-1d36ad7734b36d71.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Public

Thanks again to everyone for all the input, I sure love this site and have dug some real jewels from old posts

Andrew 56-Vicky

Andrew:

The small hole is the one closed by a clip for winter operation.  You are in good shape there, leave it open.  The pinched off tube is associated with the automatic choke, it supplies heated air to open the choke.  Do you still have the automatic choke?  Does it have a heated air supply?  Does it open fully when the engine is warmed up?  If it doesn't open, it will cause hot starting problems as well as poor gas mileage.

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I think the choke is working fine.  It is closed when I cold start it and open when hot.  So I think all is well there. I did play with the air filter a little last night, after it was hot, I shut it off and let it sit for a while then removed the air filter.  The carb inside the choke was all wet with gas so I assume you are right about the vapors collecting in the filter.  I'll play with it some more this week and try leaving the filter off for a while and then replacing it to see if it strarts

Thanks

Andrew 56-Vicky

One other strange thing I found tonight. The tube that is under the choke adjuster is wide open on my carb and sucking like mad Is this what is supposed to be hooked to the manifold heat riser?  Would it hurt to just plug it off?  When I put my finger over it the rpm's drop a little bit but not a lot but it is sucking pretty hard...

Thanks again!

Andrew 56-Vicky

Thats directly ported to a vacume source. You need to plug it for proper idle adjustment and economy. If you have an old choke tube you could thread it on and plug the end. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire