Andrew:

I don't see how your choke can possibly be working properly.  That open fitting is where the heated air is supposed to go in to the choke housing to heat the bi-metal spring and open the choke.  The heat is supposed to come from the bottom of the intake manifold.  There is a tube running across the floor of the center (exhaust) chamber, and it is probably rusted in two, that's why the tube on the other side has been pinched off.  A "heat stove" can be installed on the exhaust manifold and a tube connected to that fitting to provide heat for the choke if you do not want to remove the intake and repair the rusted out tube.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I learn something new everyday (sometimes 2 or 3).  The choke starts closed and then as it warms it opens. Maybe its jsut not working as quickly as it should or maybe since it's so warm here, it's able to get enough heat into the vacuum just from the hot air trapped under the air cleaner???

Either way I imagine that it's bad to have an open vacuum sucking dirty air.  I stuck a plug in it for now but would like to get it working correctly in case I need to run in cold conditions sometime.

Are there any diagrams anywhere that show how the tube is supposed to look?  Or can someone post a couple pics? I hate to keep this thread going but really want to make sure I don't mess it up.

Do both of the tubes on both sides of the manifold go up to the carb? I see the two pinched tubes (one on each side) and I already had a hole plugged on the drivers side right under the lip for the air cleaner, the other I assume goes right up from the manifold to the vacuum under the choke.

Again, thanks for all the info. I'm trying to soak it all up but I'm a little slow

Andrew 56-Vicky

Hello Andrew,You will find lots of answers on this site.On my carb(same as yours) someone has replaced the tubes through the manifold with the set-up John was talking about.I have a single pipe comming up from right side manifold going to that fitting on carb.Theres a "stove" inserted in a hole drilled in manifold.Exhaust does not enter the pipe just heat to open the choke.In my Ford parts catalogue is is referred to as the "service replacement"The aftermarket kits show up on Ebay for about $10.00 from time to time.Much simpler than the pipes and elbows required for the original setup.If I find a diagram somewhere will let you know!Regards Mark

  

Mark,

Thanks for the info. It's been a while since I've had time to get on and look at the posts. 

Can you help me out with some specific key words for Ebay? Or even better yet if you have a listing # for a set that is for sale or has been sold so I can look at it.  I poked around on Ebay but didn't run across anything that looked right.  I'd love to pick one up and get this thing running right.

Thanks again!!

Andrew

Andrew 56-Vicky

Andrew:

You might try "choke stove" or "choke hot air".  Also, until you get a heat source, you could loosen the three screws that hold the choke cover and turn the cover toward "lean" until the choke stands wide open when cold.  You can drive it that way, but may have to pump the gas a little on a cold start, and it may be "cold natured" while running until it warms up a bit.  Hate to see that pretty Vicky not being driven.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks for the help.  I'm really anxious to get her back on the road and running right..

Would something like this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-CHOKE-STOVE-HEATER-TUBE-KIT-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33548QQihZ007QQitemZ170231070826QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Ebay item number: 170231070826

Or how hard is it to remove the pinched lines and replace with something like this:

http://www.tee-bird.com/catalog_product_detailed.cfm?id=12943

1955-56 Ford: Tube, intake manifold to choke, RH, 1956 V-8 4-bbl (includes 357890-S & 9242)

Andrew 56-Vicky

Andrew:

I can't see a lot of the detail of the choke stove, but it probably would work for you.  The three language instructions tell me they may still be available at your local parts store that handles the HELP brand of dodads.  The reproduction parts are meant to work with the original factory setup, which includes a tube pressed into the bottom of the intake to supply the heat.  I would say that tube is rusted out, that's why the others are pinched off, to stop the exhaust leak from them when the bottom one rusts out.  To replace that tube requires the intake manifold to be removed.  The pinched off tubes are press fitted into the elbows, the elbows are also press fitted into the cross tube in the bottom of the manifold.  Sometimes it's easier to pry/twist the elbows out of the manifold and working in a vise to get the tube out of the elbow.  If nothing else, they can be drilled out.

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Another possibility, if you don't want to mess with the hot air thing would be an after market kit for an electric choke. I think one for a Holley would work. Also they make kits for manual chokes, same scenario.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Thanks guys, I'll try one of these cheap stoves and then probably do as you suggest and just hook a manual cable to it.  Here in AZ I don't think I'll ever really need it but want to make sure it's wide open when warm.

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it works out.

Andrew 56-Vicky

Hello Andrew,You might want to get the print catalogue from Tee-Bird.The choke tube setup(original type) is shown in a diagram in the catalogue.I believe that all parts required are available from them.They also list a tool to remove old pipe from manifold.I assume it can be done on car.Part# 9890T under tools.$10.00.If you have never looked at one of their catalogues I think you will be very surprised at the # of parts they have for 55-56 Fords.Well worth the $5.00 cost.I just found my catalogue tonite(Friday)All parts needed to put original choke tube hookup are available from Tee-Bird.Total cost for 6 items is about $40.00.Plus the tool mentioned earlier if you want to try it without taking manifold off.Regards Mark