I just got back to town after the 4th and missed the one above on Ebay. I found this one 170227953855 that is 1" thick made of phenolic.  But I'm not sure if it will work with the 56 T-pot or not.

Also it is 1", is that better or worse for performance than a 1/2".  No one has ever explained the purpose of a spacer to me  

Will the original air cleaner still clear the hood with a 1" spacer?

Thanks again guys!!

Andrew 56-Vicky

Hello Andrew,There is one of these spacers on Ebay.Used item#310063231829 if you are interested.Regards mark

  

Andrew:

The spacer I was referring to was the factory spacer.  It is 1/2" thick and made of a phenolic like material.  Your asbestos gasket would be a help.  I'm not sure what the pcv spacer is made of, but if it's aluminum it isn't nearly as effective as phenolic or asbestos.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks!

They also show the $40 carb spacer listed for PCV... John, is this the spacer you were talking about that might help with heat transference to the carb?  Or do you think that asbestos gasket I bought will do the trick?

Andrew 56-Vicky

Andrew,Tee-Bird has a listing for the intake manifold gaskets with restrictor to cut off the heat passage from head to head.Part # 9433A-SP $15.00.Might help your carb problem but not sure if it affects heat to carb choke tube.Maybe someone else will know.Just thought i would mention it.It is listed in "engine parts" section if you want to read it.regards Mark

  

Thanks for the tip, I went and pulled out my catalog and made a list of all the parts.  The diagram was exactly what I needed to see to understand what it should all look like.

I think I'll probably just pull the manifold so it will be easier and I'll have a better chance of not bending the tubes.  I also have the new carb insulator I want to put on so I'll just take a day when I get the parts and tear it all down and do it right.

I'll give them a call tomorrow and get the parts on the way.  If I do pull the intake, should I replace the gaskets? I assume so but the motor only has 1400 miles on it so do you think they may still be reusable?

Thanks again to all you for your advice, suggestions and wisdom.  I owe you all most of the credit in the restoration of this car, I can assure you it wouldn't be on the road without you

Andrew 56-Vicky

Hello Andrew,You might want to get the print catalogue from Tee-Bird.The choke tube setup(original type) is shown in a diagram in the catalogue.I believe that all parts required are available from them.They also list a tool to remove old pipe from manifold.I assume it can be done on car.Part# 9890T under tools.$10.00.If you have never looked at one of their catalogues I think you will be very surprised at the # of parts they have for 55-56 Fords.Well worth the $5.00 cost.I just found my catalogue tonite(Friday)All parts needed to put original choke tube hookup are available from Tee-Bird.Total cost for 6 items is about $40.00.Plus the tool mentioned earlier if you want to try it without taking manifold off.Regards Mark

  

Thanks guys, I'll try one of these cheap stoves and then probably do as you suggest and just hook a manual cable to it.  Here in AZ I don't think I'll ever really need it but want to make sure it's wide open when warm.

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it works out.

Andrew 56-Vicky

Another possibility, if you don't want to mess with the hot air thing would be an after market kit for an electric choke. I think one for a Holley would work. Also they make kits for manual chokes, same scenario.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Andrew:

I can't see a lot of the detail of the choke stove, but it probably would work for you.  The three language instructions tell me they may still be available at your local parts store that handles the HELP brand of dodads.  The reproduction parts are meant to work with the original factory setup, which includes a tube pressed into the bottom of the intake to supply the heat.  I would say that tube is rusted out, that's why the others are pinched off, to stop the exhaust leak from them when the bottom one rusts out.  To replace that tube requires the intake manifold to be removed.  The pinched off tubes are press fitted into the elbows, the elbows are also press fitted into the cross tube in the bottom of the manifold.  Sometimes it's easier to pry/twist the elbows out of the manifold and working in a vise to get the tube out of the elbow.  If nothing else, they can be drilled out.

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"