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Rough start

Posted By 56-Vicky 17 Years Ago
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56-Vicky
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Last Active: 15 Years Ago
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Hi guys!

Have a strange thing on my 56 Vicky, I have been living with it for a while now but want to see if anyone has a quick fix or has seen it before.  I searched and didn't come up with anything that seemed related.

When the car sits for a few days I have to pump and crank it for about 10 seconds then it fires right up.  (I think this is very normal).  Then if I shut it off and restart it within about 5 min's it fires up as soon as I hit the starter.... GREAT...

However, the problem is if I run it till it's warm and then shut it off and wait an hour or so (like drive to a cruise or something), it takes a LOT of cranking (20 seconds) and pumping to get it started, then it runs rough for about 5 seconds... and then is back to normal.  If I then shut it off it will start up immediately again.

Could it be something like a stuck choke or bad float bowl or something?

Thanks!!!

Andrew w00t 56-Vicky




PF Arcand
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Andrew: Your in Australia if I recall. Hot weather? Sounds like a possible heat percolation problem... ??

Paul
Doug T
Posted 17 Years Ago
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It sounds very much like you are losing the fuel in the float bowl of the carb.  The difficulty in starting after a hour is caused by an extreme rich condition.  You don't say what carb you have. But if it is anything but a late model Holley 4 bbl you can take the top cover off and watch it to see if it leaks down.  You can take it off the car if you don't like the heat and gasoline together and do it in a cooler place. There could be a number of leaks depending on which carb it is but one thing they are all prone to have is a porosity caused by corrosion if water has been in them. 

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.


55Birdman
Posted 17 Years Ago
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If you figure out whats wrong with your carb let me know mine is doing the same thing . I have 3x2s holley 94s. I have done all I know to the carb to get it right. I had the same trouble when I had a 390 cfm 4bbl on it.

55Birdman Smile  Hickory NC
56-Vicky
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Hi guys, I'm finally back in town and have access to the site again.

I've done some playing with the T-pot (still having issues).  If I run it till its hot (185*) then shut it down and pull the top off the carb I see little streams of bubbles coming up through the fuel. I assume that is percolation mentioned above.  As this is bubbleing I also see fuel coming in from the inlet valve.

So, if this is percolation, is there a good way to fix it? I'm in AZ and it's pretty warm now so I need to get it fixed if I'm going to drive it much.

One guy at a cruise in mentioned that percolation causes the fuel to evaporate and the issue when you try to start it isn't that it's flooded but that it has to pump the lines full again. He suggested I add an electric fuel pump to run for a few seconds before I start it.  What do you guys think?

Andrew w00t 56-Vicky




sundance241
Posted 17 Years Ago
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I have almost the same problem with mine ,   but only after it sits about a week......I have an elderbrock  500 on it , and believe it drains down through the carb..............on a restart it fires right off....   If you havnt  done so yet ,  check the points , plugs ................Sam

56 victoria
Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Andrew:

As the fuel percolates, where are those fuel vapors going?  They are collecting in the air filter.  That causes a rich mixture when you try to restart.  Sometime when it's warmed up, shut it down and take the air filter off.  Let it sit for an hour and then put the filter back on and try to start it.  See if it acts any differently.

Do you have the 1/2" thick phenolic spacer between the manifold and carb.  That should insulate the carb some to reduce percolation.  There is a little flat metal clip around the accelerator pump rod just below the air cleaner flange.  That clip covers a hole in the pump rod, slide the clip up or down on the rod to uncover the hole.  Also, be sure the heat riser valve between the right exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe is free, or in your climate, just tie it open.  That will reduce intake manifold heat.  Truck intake gaskets can be used to further reduce intake heat.  In your area, you might get away with blocking the exhaust heat at the juncture of the heads and manifold.

John in Selma, IN

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DANIEL TINDER
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Hey John,



Aside from the standard theory re: float bowl evaporation in a teapot that's been sitting for awhile (there always seems to be just enough gas left in the pump reservoir to start the engine, but not to keep it running), what do you think about the idea that alcohol in modern gasoline attacks the check valves in the mechanical pump (like the Viton float needle/power valve), causing them to leak down and leave the fuel line dry?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Daniel:

That's a good question.  The pumps I've had apart are all old ones, and the check valves seem to be made of a hard fibreboard like material.  New ones may have some type of viton like valves, I'm not sure.  Also, I tend to think our midwest gasoline suppliers are still selling out the rest of the winter stock in the tanks, and that blend evaporates quicker for better winter starts.  Percolates easier, though.

John

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55Birdman
Posted 17 Years Ago
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As mentioned earlier in this forum my car is doing the same thing. But, it was doing it when I have my teapot carb on it . I switched to a 390 Holley and it did the same thing and now with 3x2s its still doing it. FAP headers petronix ignition,Taylor plug wires. Only thing not changed is the fuel pump. any ideas on this?

55Birdman Smile  Hickory NC


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