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Ooopppsss I am reposting this from the Street forum, I think it is better here 😅
Hi all you Y-block lovers! I'm new to this forum from Athens, Greece with my '54 Mercury Monterey driver. It has the original 239 with low mileage, manual with Overdrive, 6volt positive ground, the 2140 Teapot and, the ' temperamental' Load-O-Matic..
Before learning that need a SUN machine, way back I tried to adjust the spring weights and really messed it up. I found one in England but it came back and still is no good. I've always had problems and lately it misfires especially in the mid RPM range.
Here are my novice questions for your kind expert consideration:
1. Is there a way I can manually tune the springs without the SUN machine?
2. Are there reliable Load-O-Matic tuners in the states I can send it for proper tuning?my Load-O-Matic for tuning or I just forget about them? 3. Should I simply forget about it and go for a point unit with centrifugal weights like the ones used in the later Y-Block engines? And frankly I would like to keep it as buy now. I ( I can easily do Ted 's vacuum Teapot conversion I read about in this forum) know it quite well 4. 5. I am also open foran HEI distributor that looks like my original and can fit with the shaft length and tang coupling to the oil pump. However there is a question with the wiring of my overdrive's kick down switch wiring on the coil, because I tried the Pertronix unit it way back and it did not work.
That's it, thank you all in advance Aris
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Mercury parts book lists it with PN. B5A-9905-B but mentions ' stamped 25' unless this is for a Ford PN?
The 'STAMPED 25' merely ID's the SPARK CONTROL VALVE if say you have an assortment out of the parts box. There is only one listed for your application. I think what is meant by 'shimming' is the addition/removal of shims in the DIST ADV CANISTER to control the vacuum advance. This was used on later DUAL ADVANCE. I believe this is what is being discussed. You will notice on the BREAKER PLATE (12151) POST (12357) that hold the advance springs that they can be adjusted by rotating them (to adjust spring tension). You will have to have a very sensitive vacuum gauge to measure correctly the small signal given by the carb. What are the DIST ASSY ID NOS on all of your distributors? You may have a NOS that is calibrated correctly already.

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Yes KULTUZ, that is why I bought a NOS from eBay yesterday, hoping it comes pre-adjusted. It is PN FAE-12127-A as shown on the picture , my spare one minus the gear I ordered is FAE-12127 A2 and the one on the car must be the same. My parts manual has three PN's, FAE 12127-C (which I wrote must be for the Police Merc of those days as I found also a Police Teapot version), a FDC 12127-A and a FEC-12127-A So all numbers are the same, so I believe and hope all will fit.
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Yes KULTUZ, that is why I bought a NOS from eBay yesterday, hoping it comes pre-adjusted. It is PN FAE-12127-A as shown on the picture , my spare one minus the gear I ordered is FAE-12127 A2 and the one on the car must be the same. My parts manual has three PN's, FAE 12127-C (which I wrote must be for the Police Merc of those days as I found also a Police Teapot version), a FDC 12127-A and a FEC-12127-A So all numbers are the same, so I believe and hope all will fit.
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The photo with "shim?" with arrow is not where shims are installed, if anywhere. That "collar" is to be tightly held in place with a roll pin. The collar should be pinned to allow a minimum of .020" up and down thrust of the shaft. My 1955 book calls for .020 to .024" thrust. The correct position of the gear is also a critical dimension that must be followed. Trying to precisely adjust the advance springs while in the engine will be challenging. Standard vacuum gauges are not accurate enough to split an inch of vacuum/mercury into a fraction but by experimentation you may get the "feel" of it. The vacuum advance canister will need to be disconnected from the carburetor and then plumbed to the pump and gauge because with no load on the engine, the air flow through the carb will not provide a good and proper signal. There are devices available that can be plumbed in for precisely measuring small vacuum signals. If you would like to see the one I have, I'll gladly try sending a pic of it. As stated above, the NOS distributor you have may be calibrated well enough out of the box. You could push a vacuum hose against the canister connection and with the other end clinched in your teeth, make sure everything moves freely.
64F100 57FAIRLANE500
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