Follow up, now that our car is running, it runs great with the rebuild. No hesatation, crisp all the way through including WOT on the freeway.

While your mechanic is setting your ignition timing with a timing light, have him also check out the distributor’s vacuum advance system.  This can also be done with the timing light.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hello Nat,

If the only thing you changed besides the carb is the coil have you(A) tried the old coil?(B) Have you checked to make sure its not hooked up backwards as far as + and- to the correct connections?Are you running the balast resistor hooked up as stock because I believe the flamethrower is a high voltage unit that does NOT use the ballast resistor.Someone else on this site using that coil could verify this because I am not 100% sure about that.From what you told about the carb as far as jet sizes etc I don't think the carb is far off as far as settup.It should run well enough to drive it.I really feel you have a problem somewhere else like ignition.

  

And from memory, the pertronix is straight battery voltage, you can't use a resistor as I found out on my boat when I switched, they use a short section of resistance wire inline.

Thanks guys I will have a mechanic check the timing. My original problem with my old 4150 carb was the right side needle mixture screw adjustment would do nothing. I could screw it all the way in and the car would keep running. The car would run really rich. Black sooty spark plugs, large patches of soot on the ground etc. I had it rebuilt twice. The only other change other than my new carb is the Flamethrower coil. I have not touched anything else. The car ran very well with good gas mileage before my 4150 failed.

Nat; Mark is right on, if you don't even know if the engine is timed right, don't adjust anything, until you get that checked out!

Paul

Hello Nat,

What was the original problem which made you think the cause was the carb?I know you had it rebuilt and were still having problems and decided to replace it altogether.Are you having any of the same problems as you originally did before starting on the carb rebuild/replacement?It is possible that the cause is not carb related at all.If you don't have a timing light you can't check where you are as far as timing and also cannot tell if the advance on the distributor is working correctly.You should  at least check the vacuum advance by putting a length of hose on and applying a mouth suction.You should feel resistance which means the diaphragm is intact.If no resistance the advance is not working properly which can give the symptoms you are asking about.In order to "read" the sparkplugs you need to drive at various speeds for a distance.Simply running short distance or idling will not give accurate feedback on plugs condition.As a suggestion it may be worth your while to have a professional autoelectric shop run a scope test on the motor and see if you don't perhaps have a problem with the ignition breaking down.As I think I mentioned last  time there is a braided  copper ground wire running from the breaker plate to the distributor body providing complete ground circuit for your Pertronix ignition.Check it and be sure its not broken under the breakerplate causing "ön-off"as the advance cuts in.Don't just look at it-pull up and make sure its still attached underneath where you can't see it.

  

Hi guys.

1957 Tbird 312, Fordomatic.

As a recall I am getting a hesitation from a standing stop. When I am up to speed and punch it I get a flat spot and then it goes however it doesn’t seem to run cleanly. It starts very easily and It idles very smooth. I have rock solid steady reading of 17 on my Vacuum gauge in drive. I do not have a Timing Light.

I checked my plugs and they are completely spotless - Ground strap looks polished clean, porcelain pure white - electrode is clean - Each mixture screw is out 1 1/2 turns. If I try to richen the mixture it starts to idle rough and begins puffing black smoke. I did the paper clip experiment on the vacuum secondary pump shaft - The paper clip did not move at all. Perhaps the spring is too strong.

I have a flamethrower coil, pertronix, plugs gapped at .044

Accelerator Pump adjustment is correct.

Ground strap in distributor is good. I actually have it extended going to the block.



I have a bit more info my new Holley 4160 carb 465 CFM

• 8.5 Power Valve - My original 4150 had 6.5

• Green spring for Vacuum Secondaries - My original 4150 had the silver which is lighter spring.

• Primary Jets - 122-57 My original 4150 had the same

• Nozzle 0.025 My original 4150 had the same



I hope this helps.

Nat. Time for some HOMEWORK on your part. We need to know. !, what is your engine manifold vacuum? Do you  have a timing lite? Is BOTH the distributor vacuum AND mechanical advance operating correctly? Can you dis-connect the hose to the distributor advance, plug it then connect a SECOND hose to the distributor advance. Then idle the engine with the timing lite on the marker on the balancer and suck on the open end of Second rubber hose and WATCH the Timing ADVANCE. Goose the throttle to see if the mechanical advance changes the timing on the timing lite. FORGET THE POWER VALVES. Not an issue. Lack of fuel when you press down on the gas pedal= accelerator pump. TELL US AGAIN in GREAT DETAIL just what is going on. You want a solution DO SOME WORK. It is really that simple. Pete

Nat - Do you have an auto (Ford-o-Matic) tranny in your bird?

Because of the second gear start - mine is very sensitive to idle speed. Raising it 50 revs got rid of the hesitation - but puts too much torque against the converter to suit me when sitting at a light. When I drop it back - you have to put an egg under your foot. Starting in low  - no problem.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona