I have been adjusting the valve clearance using a .019 feeler gauge.I can't determine how tight the adjustment should be.How much effort should it take to remove the gauge after locking the adjuster?I know this is something you develop a touch for after doing it many times.I am doing one cylinder at a time using the firing order.Should there be a light valve noise after doing the adjustment or basicaly no sound at all(with the motor running cold at startup).One other thing I noticed is that oil feed to the left side rockers is much quicker than the right side.I have disaasembled the rockers twice to make sure all holes are clear.Is there maybe a partial blockage in the oil passage in the block on the right side or is this normal?This motor was very badly full of crud when I started working on it but now runs very well with no smoke.If there is a blockage in the right side oil passage in the block any suggestions on clearing it without taking the head off.Oil does flow just takes about 3-5 minutes before it starts on that side(at fast idle speed).There was NO oil to either side when I started working on it.Shafts plugged solid.Any input on either question appreciated.

  

Mark - How wide are your feeler blades? On mine - after numerous set-ups and then hearing a racket.....I went back and checked the clearance with a dial indicator. I was consistently 1 to 1.5 thou loose - rocker tip wear and the width of the blade was making my readings a bit wide. If you have the equipment to do this check with an indicator - it might show the difference. After I knew this (for my motor) - I used a different feeler - thinner by .001.

My uncle was a believer in the - "carefully find zero then back off 1/4 turn" - old school type of adjustment. Then run the engine warm - and if any noise turns up - find the guilty party by suppressing the sound - one at a time - with a gloved finger. Then adjust it warm (and running) until the noise "just" goes away. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Forum search would likely disclose details re: previous discussion of various cam journal/bearing types and relation to oil flow differences through the years. Partial clog might open more with higher-detergent oil use, but old/total plug likely needs drilling.



Rocker/valve contact wear will also determine feeler gauge accuracy. Do you have jamb nuts? Torquing them always opens clearance a consistent amount on mine. If you also have friction adjusters, pre-calculating change, and using torque wrench & thinner gauge should speed work .

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Check out this link

http://www.bigdclub.org/Nuckels/Nuckels1.html

About 1/2 way down on the page is the late Walt Nuckles method of 0 lashing the valve then backing off the adjuster. He calculated the thread pitch as to how far to back it off to get proper lash.

I have used this method and it does work well with worn parts were the feeler gage hangs up on the wear ridge on the rocker.

It's your uncles 1/4 turn method but with calculations as to why it works

I used to hang out at mechanic shops over 50 years ago and watch the old timers. Sometime they ran me off and sometime they explained things to me. I still remember an old mechanic with a short cigar in his mouth telling me to check the valves after he had adjusted them with the motor running. He said "that's why they call em feeler gauges. You can feel when they're right".

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Thanks for the response.My problem I think is that I make it too tight as far as lash.I have the locknuts to deal with which does make it harder to get an acurate adjustment.When the screw is turned down should it touch the gauge and withdraw easily or should there be a drag on the feeler gauge as its pulled out?.Any suggestions about the lack of oil flow to the one side?I had a look at the  Walt Nuckles link mentioned.There was a P and G valve gapping tool on Ebay about 3 weeks ago in excellent condition with the original wood box.It went for I believe $280.00.I will give that method of valve adjustment a try.Makes sense as to why it works.

  

I believe that most of the loss of oil complaints, not caused by sludge, are caused by a too shallow groove in the cam. Ford cams and replacement cams had very a shallow groove for the oil to pass through. As the center cam bearing wears it blocks off the groove. The bearing doesn't wear where the groove is.

Logic would tell me that the drivers side would lose oil first, due to camshaft rotation but that's not what I hear from customers. It is common for the passenger side to lose oil first. Maybe the cam chain pulls the cam tight against the passenger side of the cam bearing

I don't know of an easy cure if this your problem. The only way to fix it is to remove the cam and cut the groove .015-.020" deeper. Don't make it much wider as this will reduce the bearing surface.

If you're down under read this message using a mirror, the passenger side-driver side stuff will make more sense

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Mark.  You didn’t mention if the engine is physically clean in the valve cover area or not but if there is evidence of sludge, then the possibility exists that the oil gallery coming up from the camshaft to the top of the head is simply blocked.  Removing the rocker arms on the problem side and pumping the oil hole in the head with oil or white grease can possibly clear the passage.  A small piece of flat plate that just bolts to the top of the head with a grease zerk placed over the oil hole works well in these cases in clearing that particular oil passage.  Otherwise you’re looking at what John Mummert suggested in that the cam bearing has worn enough to restrict oil flow at the groove in the cam journal.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Logic would tell me that the drivers side would lose oil first, due to camshaft rotation but that's not what I hear from customers. It is common for the passenger side to lose oil first. Maybe the cam chain pulls the cam tight against the passenger side of the cam bearing

If you could get a cam bearing out of an older motor in one piece you might be able to measure it and determine that. I'd think the forces would diminish the furthur away from the front bearings you got. Your solution, of opening up the back of the bearing with a groove, eliminates this problem altogether.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

John ,

I was just thinking before I read your "Down Under mirror " paragraph ," That happened to me on the drivers side ???? " An oil pump  relief valve jammed in a newly( 1500 mile ) rebuilt motor . Stripped the motor ,acid bathed the block ,new rings ,bearings etc,etcAfter reinstalling  motor and gearbox ,Fire up "Re-rebuilt #2 " ,drive about 40 mile and all of a sudden ,noisey rockers ???.Pull valve cover ,dry as "Death Valley " .Spun cam bearing .Grease rockers,drive home , pull out motor and gearbox  all before sunset ????A day I try not to remember .This happened about 15 years ago .I am sure machine shop used 351 Cleveland cam bearing as replacement .

Lon

PS .After reinstalling  rebuild # 3,couldn't get oil pressure .Look under car to see about 5 Qts of oil .Don't forget to reistall oil gallery plugs in rear of block FIRST .

yblocksdownunder