something tells me if you had alot of sludge in areas you can see and access , and you have cleaned it and you still have a slow or weak oiler , then you probably need to remove the head and finish the job . Its not difficult , but it is time consumming . Dont forget to remove the oil pan and clean it as well as much of the sludge will settle in the pan and end up clogging the screen . the leading cause of engine failure is contamination .  

[quote]crenwelge (8/26/2009)

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I still use a tool that was made by Snap-on about 50 years ago. It has a 1/2 drive for the proper socket for the lock nut and then has a knob with a slotted screw driver. That tool does the job of 2 hands with one leaving the other one free to "feel" with the feeler gauge. Those tools appear on eBay quite often.



Similar tool on eBay now (made by Zim), but has built-in dial gauge to indicate screw travel.




6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Just a further note on the sludge problem. Another contributing factor is a plugged crankcase venting system. Particularly the oil filler cap. On a stock engine, the filler cap screen is the "only" intake for crankcase air. They are often plugged with dirt & oil, thereby canceling the crankcase venting. Wash it in solvent if plugged & blow it out with air, if that does not clear it properly, buy a new one. On engines with the side crankcase canister, there is a filter in the canister. Make sure it's not plugged up...

Paul

I still use a tool that was made by Snap-on about 50 years ago. It has a 1/2 drive for the proper socket for the lock nut and then has a knob with a slotted screw driver. That tool does the job of 2 hands with one leaving the other one free to "feel" with the feeler gauge. Those tools appear on eBay quite often. http://cgi.ebay.com/SNAP-ON-OVERHEAD-VALVE-ADJUSTING-TOOL-8-LONG_W0QQitemZ360182526172QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dc8d30dc&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

I can understand how you might "touch up" the adjustment with the motor running after doing the cold adjustment,however my motor being the early 55-56 rocker adjusters uses locknuts on the screws.You almost need three hands trying to adjust and lock it with the motor running.By the way member mctim64 has some great y-block videos available under his "profile" page and I was really impressed with the one on reconditioning and pressurizing the rockershaft assemblys.Great info for us y-blockers!

  

I believe finding the "zero lash" point might be a bit more difficult with the rockers rocking. I regularly tweak things - running - after I do the "zero plus a quarter turn loose" and the engine is warm. Finding a particularly noisy spot by dampening them with a finger isn't too difficult a move - and it seldom takes much of a turn to set things right.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I was reading this thread and wondering if there was any reason not to start the engine with the valve cover off, when do the "uncle 1/4 turn adjustments"?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

Just an update for anyone following this topic.I took the rocker shafts apart again.Still found some of the small oil holes in the arms themselves were partially blocked.Coat hanger wire is exactly the right size to really clean out the holes at front and rear of the arms.I squirted WD-40 down the oil feed hole in the head on passenger side several times,let it soak and applied compressed air down the hole.Readjusted the lash using the 1/4 turn method as described on the other site a member posted.One thing I found handy when trying to keep the pushrods from disappearing down the holes while working and reinstalling the shaft assemblys was to steal 8 wooden clothes pins from the wifes cache and use them to stop the pushrods from falling.Works well.I now have oil to all pushrods from the rocker arms which I did not have before.Oil to the passenger side is about 1 1/2-2 minutes after the drivers side.Seems better than it was before.I am still not convinced that I have the lash right-not noisy at all but it may to too little lash as opposed to too much.For any of the newer members just starting work on an old  Y-block :years of neglect as far as oil changes can really plug up the valve train so spend some time taking the shafts apart.Remove the plugs in the end of the shafts,and clean out the accumulated crud inside the shafts and the small holes in the rocker arms and be aware there are 2 holes in each arm.Thanks for the input from everyone.

  

John ,

I was just thinking before I read your "Down Under mirror " paragraph ," That happened to me on the drivers side ???? " An oil pump  relief valve jammed in a newly( 1500 mile ) rebuilt motor . Stripped the motor ,acid bathed the block ,new rings ,bearings etc,etcAfter reinstalling  motor and gearbox ,Fire up "Re-rebuilt #2 " ,drive about 40 mile and all of a sudden ,noisey rockers ???.Pull valve cover ,dry as "Death Valley " .Spun cam bearing .Grease rockers,drive home , pull out motor and gearbox  all before sunset ????A day I try not to remember .This happened about 15 years ago .I am sure machine shop used 351 Cleveland cam bearing as replacement .

Lon

PS .After reinstalling  rebuild # 3,couldn't get oil pressure .Look under car to see about 5 Qts of oil .Don't forget to reistall oil gallery plugs in rear of block FIRST .

yblocksdownunder

Logic would tell me that the drivers side would lose oil first, due to camshaft rotation but that's not what I hear from customers. It is common for the passenger side to lose oil first. Maybe the cam chain pulls the cam tight against the passenger side of the cam bearing

If you could get a cam bearing out of an older motor in one piece you might be able to measure it and determine that. I'd think the forces would diminish the furthur away from the front bearings you got. Your solution, of opening up the back of the bearing with a groove, eliminates this problem altogether.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart)