I have the motor and transmission out to rebuild the motor.Can I install new coils while I have the engine out?Is there sufficient vehicle weight to put the springs back in?

  

Cage the springs with a good spring compressor. Its a lot easier without a motor than with one. Now would be a good time to replace the control arm bushings etc while you can walk right in there.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Thanks.Doing the bushings and installing my disc brake setup is part of the plan.Do I need to use the compressor to take out the old ones too?Good idea I think?

  

I redone the front suspension with no motor and trans,it did not have any front sheetmetal too and used a floor jack and it came apart and went back togather just fine.

Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

Jeff! You were able to do this without compressing the springs?There is sufficient front vehicle weight to do the springs without problem?I will still likely use a compressor,little safer I think.Did you use a pickle fork to get the ball joints apart without damaging them?iThanks for your input.

  

There is a nice tool for opening the ball joints - its a long "double nut" with a pair of bolts, one extending out each end. One bolt is locked in place with a jam nut - and the long nut is held firm and other bolt turned "out" to put pressure between the two pins.

I got my machinist friend to put a dimple in the top of each of the two (3/4 - Grade 5) bolts so they center on top of the ball joint pins - and use lots of "never-seize" so nothing galls. And then....I loaned it to someone, so its not in the box anymore.

To simplify life when removing the spring loads from the A-arm, I use a longer than standard threaded rod with the "factory" lower spring compressor hooks. It extends out the upper shock opening to an anchor that's easy to reach and lubricate. Jacking against the A-arm compresses the spring - the described gadget holds it locked up in place while you take the jack out of the way.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I put the floor jack under the lower controll arm to remove and install the springs and it worked,I was more concerned on the installation but I used lowered springs and they were not as stiff as the originals.  I used a pickle fork to get the ball joints apart but I was installing all new parts when it went back togather,I dont think it hurt the old ball joints and I did keep them as they were still good.

Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

When using the pickle fork breaking  the balljoint loose, do not take the nut completely off the balljoint for safety reasons. This keeps the coil spring from coming out and flying all over the place and hurting someone. Make sure the floor jack is under the aframe as well and proceed with taking the nut off the balljoint then with the frame blocked up let the jack down with the aframe and this will let you remove the coil spring safely.

-Gary Burnette-

Springs are very dangerous. Back in the 50's and 60's there were probably more spring related accidents in shops than any other kind of accidents. I have a pair that OTC built probably 50 years ago, but they are similar to these.

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-3450-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000CO7VKG

Any other kind of jerry rigging just ain't worth it.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Hi Steve! Your tool sounds similar to what Ford used originally to split the ball joint.The shop manual shows a good pic.Shop manual says once you have the joints under load a "sharp"rap with a hammer on the spindle should pop the stud free.Also says leave the nut on the stud.Undo just enough to let the stud pop free.Whatever happened to all these speciality tools once they were no longer required I wonder?