Hello Rick! I had a look at that tool.Looks similar to the one Steve described.I made one myself from bolts and double nut.If you look in the Ford shop manual this type of tool is recommended as opposed to thr fork type especially if you want to reuse the existing balljoints.Mine are in good shape.Now I can rebush the arms and install my Granada spindles and disc brakes.After I get everything cleaned up and painted.I am amazed at how much crud accumulates in the frame and steering parts over 53 years.Thanks for the tip about the tool.

  

If you don't have the time or expertise to make a ball joint removal tool, Concours Parts sell one.

Check their online catalogue (49-59 parts)Page 35. The tool list number is BJT-1 and costs $15.

I don't like using the forked ball joint splitters if I don't have to.

I have one of these tools and it works a treat.Hope this helps.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

[quote]AZ28 (11/22/2009)

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There is a nice tool for opening the ball joints - its a long "double nut" with a pair of bolts, oneextending out each end. One bolt is locked in place with a jam nut - and the long nut is held firmand other bolt turned "out" to put pressure between the two pins.



I got my machinist friend to put a dimple in the top of each of the two (3/4 - Grade 5) bolts so they center on top of the ball joint pins - and use lots of "never-seize" so nothing galls. And then....I loaned it to someone, so its not in the box anymore.



Hello Steve!I made one of these for myself.Works great.Got both spindles off with no damage to the balljoints.Once I had good tension on the joint a good whack with the hammer(on the spindle near the joint stud) and the stud pops out.Great suggestion

  

Before unloosing any tension on the spring, wrap a chain through one or two coils and then to the frame. This prevents the spring from hitting you in the face.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Hi Steve! Your tool sounds similar to what Ford used originally to split the ball joint.The shop manual shows a good pic.Shop manual says once you have the joints under load a "sharp"rap with a hammer on the spindle should pop the stud free.Also says leave the nut on the stud.Undo just enough to let the stud pop free.Whatever happened to all these speciality tools once they were no longer required I wonder?

  

Springs are very dangerous. Back in the 50's and 60's there were probably more spring related accidents in shops than any other kind of accidents. I have a pair that OTC built probably 50 years ago, but they are similar to these.

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-3450-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000CO7VKG

Any other kind of jerry rigging just ain't worth it.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

When using the pickle fork breaking  the balljoint loose, do not take the nut completely off the balljoint for safety reasons. This keeps the coil spring from coming out and flying all over the place and hurting someone. Make sure the floor jack is under the aframe as well and proceed with taking the nut off the balljoint then with the frame blocked up let the jack down with the aframe and this will let you remove the coil spring safely.

-Gary Burnette-

I put the floor jack under the lower controll arm to remove and install the springs and it worked,I was more concerned on the installation but I used lowered springs and they were not as stiff as the originals.  I used a pickle fork to get the ball joints apart but I was installing all new parts when it went back togather,I dont think it hurt the old ball joints and I did keep them as they were still good.

Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

There is a nice tool for opening the ball joints - its a long "double nut" with a pair of bolts, one extending out each end. One bolt is locked in place with a jam nut - and the long nut is held firm and other bolt turned "out" to put pressure between the two pins.

I got my machinist friend to put a dimple in the top of each of the two (3/4 - Grade 5) bolts so they center on top of the ball joint pins - and use lots of "never-seize" so nothing galls. And then....I loaned it to someone, so its not in the box anymore.

To simplify life when removing the spring loads from the A-arm, I use a longer than standard threaded rod with the "factory" lower spring compressor hooks. It extends out the upper shock opening to an anchor that's easy to reach and lubricate. Jacking against the A-arm compresses the spring - the described gadget holds it locked up in place while you take the jack out of the way.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Jeff! You were able to do this without compressing the springs?There is sufficient front vehicle weight to do the springs without problem?I will still likely use a compressor,little safer I think.Did you use a pickle fork to get the ball joints apart without damaging them?iThanks for your input.