Just wondering:

Is there any significant advantage to having the special FoMoCo tool (#T52L-6059-AAE), or will the dampner assembly usually slip on (without hammering/binding) far enough to properly center the seal/cover and allow room to snug the bolts?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

There is an advantage in using the correct tool but most people dont have access to it and simply "eyeball" it.I would say its much more difficult with the motor in the car obviously.To reinstall the damper I got hold of a longer bolt and used it to "pull" the damper on far enough to use the standard bolt.

  

If you have an old junk damper, you can make a tool to center the timing cover by honing the old damper a little so it slips easily on to the crank shout. After tighting the cover slid it off and install your good damper. A longer bolt and big washer is also a good idea for getting the damper started rather than driving it on with a hammer.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

The marine engines have a spacer behind the damper. I saved one and use it for setting the front cover. Also ground two flat spots on it so I can use it as a tool to turn the crankshaft. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

The original tool centers on the casting itself, not the seal.  The seal is too soft to actually center the cover.  The softness of the seal is our savior, though.  It will conform to the damper even if the cover is off center a little.  I've never used one of those tools, front seal leaks have never been a problem for me.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I'm with you John.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

Ditto on what John says on seal pliability.  Unless the engine is standing on its bellhousing end, the timing cover weight will keep you from accurately centering the seal with a sleeve tool or damper in place.  I’ll just suggest that the pan rail is level at both the block and timing cover and simply tighten the timing cover down.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks. Good to know (I have a special Y-Block engine stand attachment that DOES allow vertical positioning). Might also be worth the effort to rig an oversized homemade centering tool to compress the seal (unless the Ford tool can be located), and use a non-tacky gasket sealer. Since my original front seal IS leaking now, a little extra care will at least provide some peace-of-mind.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Maybe your damper has a wear groove in it.There is a seal kit available with a sleeve to fit over damper snout.

  

 

That's the way I've always done it, although I've thought of making a tool since a friend of mine showed me the one he has for FEs.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias