[quote][b]Ted (2/15/2010) I’ll just suggest that the pan rail is level at both the block and timing cover and simply tighten the timing cover down.



As it turns out, measurement reveals there is not enough slop in the bolt holes (aluminum cover) to allow perfect crank/seal centering anyway, so having the special Ford tool would be moot. When the cover is positioned max up & toward the Rt., crank is STILL .004" off center, which is likely not enough misalignment to warrant enlarging all the holes.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Or position the seal to seal against another part of the sleeve if showing any wear groove.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

Damper is recent replacement. Ancient rubber is more likely culprit. Have always wondered though, if your damper is old/worn enough to warrant a sleeve repair, it should probably just be professionally rebuilt. Why go to all that trouble, only to have the balance ring then come loose and break the crank?



P.S. Another minor point of curiosity: Seal installation instructions often are merely to drive it flush with the inside, yet my cover recess measures deeper than the seal thickness. Thus some people rig a tool to drive it all the way against the shoulder (to insure it's installed square?). Or, maybe to provide additional sealing surface to prevent bypass leaking?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

 

That's the way I've always done it, although I've thought of making a tool since a friend of mine showed me the one he has for FEs.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Maybe your damper has a wear groove in it.There is a seal kit available with a sleeve to fit over damper snout.

  

Thanks. Good to know (I have a special Y-Block engine stand attachment that DOES allow vertical positioning). Might also be worth the effort to rig an oversized homemade centering tool to compress the seal (unless the Ford tool can be located), and use a non-tacky gasket sealer. Since my original front seal IS leaking now, a little extra care will at least provide some peace-of-mind.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Ditto on what John says on seal pliability.  Unless the engine is standing on its bellhousing end, the timing cover weight will keep you from accurately centering the seal with a sleeve tool or damper in place.  I’ll just suggest that the pan rail is level at both the block and timing cover and simply tighten the timing cover down.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I'm with you John.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

The original tool centers on the casting itself, not the seal.  The seal is too soft to actually center the cover.  The softness of the seal is our savior, though.  It will conform to the damper even if the cover is off center a little.  I've never used one of those tools, front seal leaks have never been a problem for me.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The marine engines have a spacer behind the damper. I saved one and use it for setting the front cover. Also ground two flat spots on it so I can use it as a tool to turn the crankshaft. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

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Manchester, New Hampshire