thanks for the info mark.... hopefully the shaft stays put. but, knowing my luck.......



leonard

The shaft has a serrated washer which is supposed to be at the correct height to hit the block at the lower end BEFORE the shaft comes out of the pump.If it has shifted or is incorrect hieght the shaft may disengage.Luckily because of a great design the oil pump is external on the side of the block.Not real difficult to unbolt and fix the shaft so it does not come out next time.Hopefully you will not have a problem.If the dist has not been out for a long time you might want to apply some penetrating oil around the base that goes into the block(several times if possible) before you need to get it out next weekend.They get "welded" in place over the years if not moved around once in a while.

  

ted, my buddy will order the distributor this week, and we will install it next weekend.

how hard is it to get the hex shaft back in the pump, if it does come up with the distributor ?



leonard

wow, thanks ted. wouldnt want the shaft to come up with the dizzy, thats for sure.

might not have a chance to mess with it until next weekend. will let you all know how it goes.



leonard

Like most Ford engines that uses a hex shaft for the oil pump drive, care must be taken when intially pulling the distributor so that the oil pump drive itself does not come up with the distributor.  Wiggling the rotor as the distributor is being lifted will sometimes help to disengage the drive from the lower end of the distributor.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

wow greenbird56, you amaze me with each of your posts. you know your stuff.

this is great info here for all you guys.

im gonna talk to him this weekend and hopefully he will spring for a new distributor.

thanks for the tips



leonard

So...I found NAPA part number NRD 482808 on their site - that looks to be the right one for this application. If you guys can find an old swap meet junker for trading stock, you might save some of the $33 core value so he can keep his original.

Before you put the new one in - you might find it convenient to have a look at the mechanical advance mechanism while it is out on the bench. The above photo shows the typical Ford flyweight arrangement used on the later distributors. It isn't too difficult to disassemble one down to this level. The pictured unit has two "total advance" limits to choose from....18L and 13L. When the base is engaged in the 18L slot - the distributor can provide 18° of advance (36° at the crank). When it is engaged with the 13L slot - 13° (26° crank). You would like to find it in the 13L slot and if not, its a good idea to put it there. To move one 180° you must remove the little retaining clip (located under the green grease in the picture), disconnect the springs, and lift the upper rotor shaft up to turn it. The little clip has two upward facing whiskers - they have to be spread not squeezed. There is a variation of this pictured rotor shaft that has a 15L and a 10L slot - if that is what you find, I'd say use the 10L. It could be opened to the same length as a 13L with a small rat-tail file - but that is getting ahead....

Here is why you want the limited distributor advance setting - the engine will only tolerate something like 36°-38° of total mechanical advance (that is the initial plus the distributor) under load (with low/no manifold vacuum). You want to put more initial on the bottom (10°-12°) without violating the upper limit. If you were to use the 18L slot - then the initial advance set point would have to be down at 0°-2°. When using the 13L slot, the initial can be 10°-12° (adding some nice low end torque) and not violate the advance limit as the engine gets into the higher rev's. 

Installing it - the lower end has a hex drive for the oil pump shaft. In some instances, where these shafts don't get a lot of engagement into the distributor - you have to be darn sure the new distirbutor is fully down into the engine well and engaged - or you'll soon be trying to start up with no oil pressure! Rotation is counterclockwise as seen from above.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Wow, I'm just trying to soak all of this knowledge up.  I'm loving this thread!

Sorry, nothing to add to the technical side of this discussion (I'm more of a question asker at this point in my mechanical career!!), but as a side note I would suggest this Mr. Edsel: you should definitely tell your buddy to get on this forum and if nothing else read thorugh all of the responses here as well.  Not so that you don't have to help him or so he feels the need to do things himself that are beyond his skill level, but if there's anything I've learned since getting into old cars it's this: it feels so much better to at least have an understanding of mechanics then to always have to rely on someone else.  Plus that way if he creates a sign-on, etc., he can come here and ask some questions so next time he hits you up for help he'll have a starting place for you!

I know all of my mechanic friends appreciate that! LOL

Granted, I suppose you have to enjoy learning this type of thing.

Anyway, keep all the good information flowing guys....I'm loving it!

guys, i found a rebuilt distributor at my local NAPA store for 72 bucks.
gonna tell my buddy to get one.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NRD482808_0130785601&An=599001+101960+50087+2087005#

is there anything special i need to know about swapping it on his 292 ? i have pulled tons of dizzys on small block chevys and some 70's small block fords. not sure if there are any surprises on the 292 ?

thanks.
leonard

wow. you guys are amazing.

will try some wd-40 first, then since its cheap enough will talk my buddy into a rebuilt distributor.

man, this info in amazing



leonard