There are basically 2 general types of dyno testing; Engine Dyno and Chassis Dyno. Ted and others on this forum can provide you with alot more detail than I can. I had my motor engine dynoed when I was building the car in Boise, Idaho at Performance Solutions (on State Street). With the motor out of the car, the numbers you will get for HP and torque will be at the flywheel. With the engine out of the car, set-up time will take longer than with a chassis dyno, but I believe either can get your carbs and timing dialed in with maximum performance. Be prepared to pay a few hundred bucks, but it will save you many backbreaking hours bent over your fender trying to accomplish the same thing. Just my two cents worth

Rono 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Here's an update on my dual quad throttle setup. I have to put a lot of pressure in order for the throttle to move. Not sure why? Seems to move freely by hand but when I hook it up to the carb and press down with my foot It's kinda hard to push. Could my cable be not lined up properly or is the s-curve in the cable making it bind. Did anyone else have a problem with binding??? Here's some pics.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

Sounds like there is binding somewhere. Disconnect the cable from the pedal assembly and make sure  the pedal assembly moves freely. If it does, the binding is most likely in the cable. It may be too long.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Thanks Rono. The pedal moved fine and the cable moved fine but when I connect them its kinda hard. Now that I think of it the ferrule in the firewall could be angled. I'll start there.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

If it's fine with the cable disconnected from the carburetors, then I'd look elsewhere.

With the cable disconnected from the carbs, how does the carburetor linkage feel? Might the return spring simply be too strong?

The cable appears to be on an incline from the sheathing to the throttle lever. If that angle is sharp enough it will make it difficult to start opening the throttle because it gets to a point where you're trying to pull it through the pivot more than around the pivot.

Are the carburetor butterflies hitting the intake or spacer/adapter bores?


Lawrenceville, GA

Should the cable be in a straight line to the carb? I think it might be inclined as you suggest. Maybe I could rasie the bracket to align the carb linkage to the cable ferrule.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

I don't think it has to be perfectly straight. I haven't thought about this much before. I think you want the cable to be positioned in the bracket so that it is no higher than the hole in the throttle lever when it is wide open. If it is higher than that, the geometry of the system will prevent wide open throttle. If it's higher, then the cable will reach a point where it is perpendicular to a tangent of the arc (that is that the hole for the cable in the lever, and the throttle axle - the center of the arc - are directly in line with the cable), at which point the only way to open the throttle further is to change direction and push it. Does that make sense?

Simple answer, hold the throttle wide open and make sure that the cable is at least level, though a slight incline is probably better... I think.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks for all the suggestions. I still think it might be the angle of the ferrule in the firewall which is creating that 'bind'. I'm gonna try to straighten the angle out maybe with some shims or something and check the alignment at the carb as well. I'll keep you all posted.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

It looks to me like you simply need more leverage at the pedal. Either shorten the rod above the fulcrum and move the fulcrum up, or lenghten the the pedal rod. I think that'll do it!

FIGHT CONFORMITY! 

The lever at the pedal has 3 holes to attach the throttle cable to. I used the top hole should I be using the hole closest to the fulcum to create more leverage???

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)