If you've made certain that nothing is binding and tried all of the positions for the cable with that pedal, then a pedal which provides more leverage is the answer. It doesn't matter what style as long as you get more leverage.


Lawrenceville, GA

The reason for the 2 springs is because of my progressive set-up. 1 spring per carb.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

Have you tried a different return spring arrangement? In your picture it looks like you have two springs. Problem could be spring rate.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

I checked everything and took some WD-40 to everything which helped a little. What I think is happening is the pedal feels like it takes more pressure than before because of the size of the new pedal. The original pedal was the floor mount type in which you put your whole foot on it to press down. Now I have that spoon type which only uses the ball of your foot. Could the minimal contact pressure create that feeling of being harder to push? It's the only thing I can think of. I might switch it out for the Lokar Eliminator pedal which is more like the original. What do you guys think???

Original ('58 Ford Fairlane)

What I'm Currently Using (Spoon)

 

Lokar Eliminator

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

Make certain that nothing is binding. If everything seems ok, try another hole. Keep in mind that more leverage = more pedal travel so you may be limited.


Lawrenceville, GA

The lever at the pedal has 3 holes to attach the throttle cable to. I used the top hole should I be using the hole closest to the fulcum to create more leverage???

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

It looks to me like you simply need more leverage at the pedal. Either shorten the rod above the fulcrum and move the fulcrum up, or lenghten the the pedal rod. I think that'll do it!

FIGHT CONFORMITY! 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I still think it might be the angle of the ferrule in the firewall which is creating that 'bind'. I'm gonna try to straighten the angle out maybe with some shims or something and check the alignment at the carb as well. I'll keep you all posted.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

I don't think it has to be perfectly straight. I haven't thought about this much before. I think you want the cable to be positioned in the bracket so that it is no higher than the hole in the throttle lever when it is wide open. If it is higher than that, the geometry of the system will prevent wide open throttle. If it's higher, then the cable will reach a point where it is perpendicular to a tangent of the arc (that is that the hole for the cable in the lever, and the throttle axle - the center of the arc - are directly in line with the cable), at which point the only way to open the throttle further is to change direction and push it. Does that make sense?

Simple answer, hold the throttle wide open and make sure that the cable is at least level, though a slight incline is probably better... I think.


Lawrenceville, GA

Should the cable be in a straight line to the carb? I think it might be inclined as you suggest. Maybe I could rasie the bracket to align the carb linkage to the cable ferrule.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)